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08-14-2013, 07:29 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: A, A
Posts: 2
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HELP!!! My Drive Has Disintegrated!
Where can I get a replacement leg for my Maxum 2200 SR3 with 5.0l Mercruiser? All the gears are smashed up! My boat mechanic reckons that I hit something. Is it possible to self destruct? How much do you think it will cost?
Thanks for any help,
Andrew
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08-14-2013, 09:52 PM
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#2
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Ensign
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
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Hello from a fellow 2200 SR3 owner. If yours is equipped like mine, you have an Alpha Gen2 outdrive. Many people have had good luck with SEI for replacement outdrives. You can check them out here: SEI Marine Products
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08-14-2013, 10:20 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Gears go for 2 reasons, no lube or strikes. Strikes can result in lose of lube.
What drive do you have Alpha, Bravo 1, 2, 3? do you what a use, rebuilt, or new unit? Don't recommend used but if money is tight, replace the impeller if you go this way and it's an Alpha.
SEI make aftermarket Alpha units at a good price, my friend has one the only issue I see with it is the paint is peeling in a few places after 2 years.
Alpha ~$1500.00 Bravo ~$4000.00
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-15-2013, 12:25 PM
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#4
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Commander
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: B.C. canada
Posts: 265
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If you might want to change the engine coupler if you tore the leg up that bad
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08-15-2013, 12:37 PM
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#5
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Captain
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Massapequa, New York, United States
Posts: 762
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the good news is all the hurricane sandy damaged boats, there are a lot of parting out on Craigslist and Ebay.
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08-16-2013, 02:08 AM
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#6
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Delta, BC, Canada
Posts: 50
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If you hit something your insurance should cover it.
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08-16-2013, 03:51 AM
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#7
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 62
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More information helps us help you.
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Skål, Todd
~Nehalennia ∆~ Celtic Goddess of the Seafarers
2000 ~ SeaRay ~ 260DA, 5.7L EFI, Bravo III
www.vikingbay.co
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08-16-2013, 07:24 PM
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#8
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Ensign
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: A, A
Posts: 2
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Thanks for All Your Help
It was an Alpha 1 Gen 2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Gears go for 2 reasons, no lube or strikes. Strikes can result in lose of lube.
What drive do you have Alpha, Bravo 1, 2, 3? do you what a use, rebuilt, or new unit? Don't recommend used but if money is tight, replace the impeller if you go this way and it's an Alpha.
SEI make aftermarket Alpha units at a good price, my friend has one the only issue I see with it is the paint is peeling in a few places after 2 years.
Alpha ~$1500.00 Bravo ~$4000.00
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08-16-2013, 07:28 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Painter
If you hit something your insurance should cover it.
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Yep mine did. They sent the cancellation notice in the same envelope as the check to save on postage. No biggie. You agent will find someone to insure you. Personally, I am a fan of OEM. You will need to pull the serial number off of your drive then call Merc to confirm the exact model and most importantly the gear ratio.
Then it's a matter of shopping.
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08-16-2013, 09:26 PM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,607
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Well to make a claim he will need proof he hit something like a big chunk missing from the lower case where the leading edge it bent in not out.
When it comes to some equipment such as a outdrive I agree with Shrew go OEM. Alpha Gen 2 ~$2K but you can shop around. If doing it on-line don't forget there will be shipping cost as it weight ~75 lbs.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-19-2013, 02:40 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,684
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^^Agreed^^
In my case the hint was a torn propellor blade and 4 sheared gears. How the gears sheared also give great insight. The adjuster specifically wanted to see the gears themselves. When they shear whole and right down to the hub, it is indicative of an impact. when they 'tear' and leave 1/2 of the tooth behind, that is a metal failure issue. Insurance considers a metal failure as either manufacturers defect or normal wear and tear and won't cover it.
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