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09-02-2015, 02:33 AM
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#1
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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HELP! 2100 SD won't start (oil light comes on)
OK, it's been a while since I've been on here. There are lots of good discussions, but none that relate to my specific problem. (that I can find) So, here goes; my 2100 SD (that I LOVE!) finally let me down for the first time. We boated all night, and shut the engine off to enjoy the evening and the sunset. When we went to leave, the push button start sequence works as usual until it is time for the starter to do it's thing. The console beeps, and the "stop" light and oil light both illuminate. I checked my oil and it was fine. I checked my out-drive oil, and it was low. I know why it was low - because i recently replaced my lower unit and only refilled my out-drive from the bottom oil port. I completely forgot there was an upper reservoir. I filled the reservoir and still will not start. I verified that the switch in the reservoir is functioning correctly. Is there a master re-set for the control panel? I cannot find my owners manual as we have recently moved.
Any help would be most appreciated!!
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09-02-2015, 03:16 AM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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Does you hear any sounds such as a click (soleniod)?
Check batter voltage when trying to start it to ensure the battery is good.
Check battery connections foe corresion or being loose.
If these do not fix it post back with finding and we'll go from there.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-02-2015, 10:27 AM
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#3
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Batteries are good. Connections are good. Fuel pump primes is about the only noise that seems to happen when I hit start. There is some sort of safety lock program that seems to think my oil is low or something. It is either not re-setting, or a sensor is telling it that something is not good. It can't be the oil pressure sensor, because the motor hasn't even started yet, how could it be expecting oil pressure?
Thank you so much for the help!
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09-02-2015, 12:31 PM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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What engine do you have? Do you see the engine breaker (red button) on top of the engine? Next to it should be a slave solenoid, try jumping across the 2 large terminals with a screwdriver. This should make the engine crank. Post back.
PS can you post some pictures of the engine?
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-02-2015, 12:52 PM
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#5
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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5.0 Merc
It has the 5.0 Merc V-8
Hopefully my phone can post these pictures. I just noticed that a code seems to pop up on the LCD display at the helm. 3.1 I believe.
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09-02-2015, 12:56 PM
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#6
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Pics won't go
I'll have to wait until after work to post pictures. In one of my other threads (about the membrane switches) there are pictures of the helm and boat.
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09-02-2015, 04:34 PM
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#7
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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silly question but it's in neutral right?
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09-02-2015, 07:51 PM
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#8
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Yep, definitely in neutral.
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09-03-2015, 12:30 AM
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#9
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Ok, here are some pictures. I tricked the thing into starting by hitting the start button and (using the much safer method of jumper cables outside of the engine compartment) jumping the solenoid at the same time. It ran perfectly, but the stop light was still on. Also, after a brief ops check of all systems, I shut it down and tried to restart it correctly. Same problem. It would seem that whatever the error code 3.1 is that shows up when I hit the start button is what the hang-up is. It's like it is not recognizing that I filled the outdrive oil reservoir. I also checked the outdrive oil level at the vent plug and it is also full.
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09-03-2015, 12:45 AM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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To my knowledge low lube will not prevent the engine from starting.
Have you googled the error code for mercruiser?
What soleniod did you jump, the slave or the one on the starter?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-03-2015, 01:01 AM
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#11
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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I jumped the slave, the one on top of the motor next to the big red reset button.
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09-03-2015, 01:06 AM
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#12
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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I have also tried google-ing the problem and searched for the error codes but I can't seem to find anything. The only manuals I can find are very generic.
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09-03-2015, 02:12 AM
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#13
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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I think I have the manual with boat wiring diagram and will look for it.
On the slave soleniod try jumping 12V to the low current terminal (none black wire) and see if it starts just like before, this will verify the soleniod is good if it starts and the issue will be not getting power to it from the ignition switch.
I have looked at this system before for others but it has been awhile so I'll need to dust of the webs.
This keyless system was a nice idea however it was custom built for maxum and since they were shut down it is not supported very well. It was made by and uses some parts from the Voodoo boat gauges/electronics folks.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-03-2015, 02:41 AM
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#14
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Thank you so much for the help! I'll try that jump tomorrow. I really think there is some kind of programing or sensor issue that is keeping it from even trying to start. It's like it runs through its start-up-diagnostic checklist and says: "NOPE! Not gonna do it!"
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09-03-2015, 12:44 PM
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#15
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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If you want a copy of the Owners manual PM me your email address.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-03-2015, 04:31 PM
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#16
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Thanks so much for the help!
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09-03-2015, 04:56 PM
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#17
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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File sent
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-03-2015, 10:57 PM
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#18
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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From what have said I believe the key pad is working and feel the 15 amp fuse in the starting circuit is blow.
Look at the wiring diagram in the manual I sent you, in the top center you will see the key pad. At the bottom of the pad is the start button, going to the right you will see the 15 amp fuse which connects to the Y-R wire. This wire is the power to the slave soleniod's coil to energize it, currently no power exists here.
Check the fuse and post back.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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09-05-2015, 01:47 AM
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#19
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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Crazy stuff
So I tried checking the resistance of all of the sensors, and they all checked good. While I was poking around the first time I dove into this problem I found what I thought was a miscellaneous ground wire loose behind the carburetor. Being the diligent mechanic I am, I tied it to the nearest ground and moved on. Well evidently that was the problem. I have no idea what it should go to but there is also a caped off grey wire there also. I took the wire off the screw and isolated it, and the thing fired right up. Evidently that wire had grounded itself when we were out boating, and its easy to see why because it had an eyelet crimped on the end and there was no effort made to keep it from touching anything. I cut the eye off and caped the end with a crimp-on "top hat" type connector. I did not try reconnecting the wire to ground to see if I could reproduce the error. I am really hoping this was it. Here is a picture of the two wires I found.
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice! I hope I never have to visit this subject again.
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09-05-2015, 01:56 AM
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#20
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 22
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I am now also convinced that the oil light only came on after the starter sequence was interrupted by whatever code this wire caused because the ignition was "on" but the motor wasn't running to produce oil pressure. Therefore the idiot light was on for the correct reason. (total speculation, but again - all oils check good)
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