Engine wont start, click then dead

[fester]

Hi everyone.. Happy start of the boating season to you all :-)

I tried cranking my 1996 4.3LHX engine after indoor winter storage .. I get a click and then all the electronics / gauges die. The only way to revieve it is to toggle the battery kill switch and I can get it to click once again then nothing.

I'm guessing its probably the battery as its ~3-4 years old now.. I'm leaving it on charge overnight to see if it helps resolve the issue but the voltage did read 12.34V at idle.. (some websites say, if its below 12.6 after recharge then replace). My topdon says its ok at 70% capacity and I always charge it 2-3 times while the boat is in storage over winter...

Battery terminals look ok.. Dont see any corrosion apart from a bit on the screw in the negative terminal.

My next guess is either solinoid starter or bad battery? Starter motor got replaced in 2017 so I'm guessing it has a little more life in it.. What do you think I should try first if the recharge doesnt work.. A solinoid replacement or new battery? If new battery any recommendations?

Thanks everyone!

[mmwjr]

What’s the battery voltage when trying to start the engine?

[fester]

Hey mmwjr,

How many slabs of beer do I owe you at this stage? :-)

I shouldnt have used the word idle on my previous post.. its 12.34V without it doing anything.. I cant run the engine at all, just the click. but I have seen that drop to 7V on the topdon once when trying to start it.. I think its cold cranking amps drops significantly when trying to fire.

Lets start with the battery then..

Any recommendations? Numax XV27MF 95ah is what they have in stock at my local marine shop. The current battery is 70ah and was thinking about adding a few more lights.. so 95ah should overspec.

[mmwjr]

The higher reserve power you can get in a battery case size that fits the better. In the US we rate batteries in CCA or MCA, Cold Crank Amps or Marine Cracking Amps which would be minimum ~ 550 CCA for your engine.

[fester]

So after leaving the battery on charge for the night.. Tried the next day with with the kill switch down.. and it turns everytime without issue..

When the killswitch is set to "run", I get the click/dead intermittently but eventually ignited and started..

I'm guessing I might have two problems? I presume the kill switch stops the spark plugs so it never ignites and had enough voltage to run the starter motor?

Wonder if its also a failing solenoid?

Thanks again for the advice :-)

[mmwjr]

Interesting as the kill switch down only removes power from the ignition. The slave solenoid should be good since it cranks ok when the switch is down and the solenoid is not part of the ignition circuit. Try cycling the kill switch several times to see if the reliability of starts improves.

[shrew]

1) Put the shifter into FWD, then N, then REV, then N and try again.

2 Toggle the safety kill switch a few times.

[fester]

Thanks Shrew and mmwjr,

I purchased a new battery, the largest I could fit in the compartment @ 95ah.. (compared to the 70ah I had previously) and it now starts stronger, 99% of the time.. The exception was out on the water today where I got the click dead issue once and to bring it back to life I needed to switch everything off at the battery kill switch. It fired back up afterwards.. Tried toggling the kill switch a few times too .. but I couldnt replicate the issue..

Note, when I say click dead issue.. everything goes.. radio, gauges and hydrophase. Only a reset of the kill switch at the battery, will bring it back to life..

I wonder if there is anything else going on here?

Also have an engine issue where it wont go over 2200 RPM...Link if you think it might be related?

[mmwjr]

Maxum didn’t use the highest quality battery switch, it may have worn contacts. You may also have poor contact at the 10 pin engine to helm harness plug. I have seen this before where cycling power sometimes makes it work. Remove the plug connector and spray both sides with contact cleaner then reassemble ensuring the connector is fully seated.

[fester]

Another one you are spot on with Mike! A bad connection with the 10 pin..

When trying to take off the manifold boot, it disconnected with the force of a thumb and pinky finger.

Will know for sure when I fix the other issue with the 2200RPM limit also in the engine forum..

Thanks again!