Engine runs for about 20 seconds and dies

[HairyLady]

OK, new starter, slave solenoid, spark plugs, check all connections. I did fix a bad connection on the starter that runs to the fuel pump two days ago. I also gt over 9VDC at the fuel pump. The engine will start, then cuts out from lack of fuel after about 15 or 20 seconds. I closed up the push in connector receiver terminals at the fuel pump connector. I have stuck ohm meter probes into it for voltage readings and felt that maybe I open the connector receiver (female) side a little too much. Now, the 15 to 20 second situation. New water separating filter also. New Slave. New battery and charger. Isn't there some component involved here that I haven't mentioned?

[ccruser1]

what engine, carb or EFI
check fuel pump operation-sounds like a no fuel issue

[HairyLady]

The pump provides fuel to about 15 seconds, then the engine dies. I think that the power for the fuel pump becomes the job of the oil pressure sensor, and that may be the problem. Someone else stated that, so tomorrow I have to look into the connection on the oil pressure sensor (or whatever it is, no manual in front of me currently). Thanks for the reply ccruser 1/

[mmwjr]

The starter provides power to the fuel pump when cranking. Once started power comes from the oil pressure switch. The engine will run for 15-20 seconds until the fuel in the carb bowl runs out.

Probably the switch but need to verify you have oil pressure when it is running for those few seconds, else the switch is doing it's job to protect the engine.

[mmwjr]

see # 5 in attached diagram

[HairyLady]

Well, yesterday I found that the oil pressure switch is bad, as when I bypassed it I could then hear the fuel pump pumping as soon as I turn my key, even before I try to crank the engine over. So that was good. But the engine doesn't get any fuel. I took of the tube from the fuel pump to the carb, at the carb...plenty of fuel was in the tube, but still none in the carb. I am thinking that even though the op switch was obviously bad and will be replaced (oil pressure gauge shows good pressure), I need to find out what is stopping the fuel from getting to the carb. I am wondering if I should take out the entire carb, or just the top portion to see if the pathway is clogged. The little filter at the entrance of the carb appears clean enough, and I had already washed it out prior to today. One other concern is that the flaps that choke the carb pretty much stay closed. I don't know if they open once the engine fires up. I can move them easily with my hand, but when moving the throttle, they only open a slight bit. The linkage at that point seems hard to move to close the choke. Maybe that is normal and I should worry about getting fuel into the carb at this point. What is the best way to clear any blockage in the carb between the fuel pump tube entry and the barrel?

OK, put in the new OP switch, different than the original, but got her in. Now, before I take the carb apart. I am trying to see if the little fuel filter in the carb, after the fuel pump tube connects to the pump, is put in correctly, spring, filter...put in correctly. If not, it could stop fuel from getting into the carbs. Hope I can find a diagram. This, again, is because now that the fuel pump is working, there is no fuel in carbs. Make me still wonder if something happened when I force jammed my throttle from forward, back into neutral.

[ccruser1]

check your anti-siphon valve located in the fuel tank that the fuel line attaches to. If that is clogged orpartially clogged that will give you issues in getting fuel to the carb.

[mmwjr]

Ok HL now for the rest of the story.

OP switch was the issue regarding fuel. Seems he created a new problem cleaning things up

[ss3964spd]

HL,

If you are confidant that fuel is making its way to the carb inlet (I'd still like to see you verify by pulling the gas line off the carb, put the end of it in a bottle or other container, then turn the key to ensure gas comes pouring out) then virtually only one thing stands in the way - the carb's float/needle/seat assembly. The filter and spring are installed as you descibed; spring goes into carb, filter goes on top, done this way in the event the filter becomes clogged then the fuel pressure pushing against the clogged filter will over come the spring and allow gas into the carb. The needle/seat/float (by float, think toilet tank float) assembly regulates how much gas gets into the carb. When the float rises it in turn presses the needle valve against its seat, shutting off the gas flow. If, after sitting all those years, the needle is now stuck to the seat, gas cannot enter. That said, they usually fail the other way - the needle/seat/float fail in the open position - flooding the carb and engine.

Regardless, if gas cannot get into the carb the carb will have to come apart. Remove it entirely from the engine and rebuild it properly.

What carb is it?

Dan

[mmwjr]

Ok so let's close this thread out, HairyLady sent me the following private message that should have been posted here. His reference to letting things dry out is from using a pressure washer on the engine to clean it up, not a good idea.

"I guess everything dried out, and I was able to fire her up yesterday. There were still some brittle wire connections at the battery that I had to repair, but she is running fine so far. Now just cleaning up the bilge area and tidying up wires. So, here was the problem(s): Bad slave solenoid, wires broken at connectors, water on wires from power-washing the bilge, and bad oil pressure switch. Now, on the the cosmetics. Still waiting for the trailer to come in. I thank all who helped me with this, especially Mike. I hope my trials and tribulation are able to help someone else with the same issues. Also, wonderful how maxum didn't install a stainless steel water heater, and it rusts and rots out from the bottom. Going to replace it with a better one. Thanks again!"