Engine has a tick

[speedysprocket]

Originally Posted by jrsick

Thanks for the responses. Some questions to help plan repair:
- Do I need to separate the riser and manifold, or can I remove as a pair? I know this will be heavy. I have replaced riser gasket before and it was a challenge. I used Permatex to hold gasket in place but still had to get riser on just right the first time.
- Did you remover exhaust hose (rubber tube) from the riser, or keep it connected to riser? I'm trying to think of method that will result in least damage to hose.
- Should I address any corrosion issues I encounter? I have some excellent lightweight rust inhibitor.
regards and thanks, Randy

Speedy,
I keep my boat at a house in Southern Shores area of OBX most of the year. I boat the Currituck and Albemarle sounds. Lots of coves for fishing, crabbing, and water sports. Boat is at my house two months a year and I launch out of Bob's and Munden Point.
What is the name of your boat? I am at NOB Marina regularly. I would like to admire your fine vessel during next dock walk.

I would remove the elbow. Loosen the all the hose clamps for the rubber sleeves. I usually have to pull the elbow with everything else up off of the Y pipe to get it off.
Putting it back on, my elbow holes are slotted, so you should be able to put the gasket down, two bolts in, and then slide the elbow into those bolts. Put your other two bolts in, then remove two if you have to for the oil filter or whatever may share those bolts to add that on.
Sandy Claws is on I dock, I think. The last floater before the fixed pier. Green canvas and needs wax...

[jrsick]

Speedy, you've convinced me, I will remove the riser. I was overly concerned about breaking the seal between manifold and riser but I will have to be precise.

Mike, I have dry joint. That's another reason why I'll remove the riser. Last riser gasket I replaced was the 4-channel style, 2-channel should be easier. Glad you asked because I didn't think about dry vs wet.
Boat has been fresh water for all of it's 63-hour life. I drove to Smith Mountain Lake to get it. Drove back home through 80 miles of road construction; jersey barriers right on the lane lines and trucks next to me.

[jparsons121]

Depending on the age of the riser/manifold, I'd only separate if; a) You didn't have room to pull off as a unit, or b) they are suspect and the joint needs to be inspected.

Try this trick.. Get yourself 2 studs that are just about 1/2" longer than the manifold bolts. (No need to be precise, I used all-thread and cut them to length)

For disassembly, loosen the hose clamps on the rubber joint. Remove the outermost two manifold bolts. Insert the studs, tightening a few turns only (no need to to crank them in that far.)
Remove the remaining manifold bolts and slide the assembly off using the studs as supports. Pull the studs out to scrape/clean head surfaces.


After cleaning insert these studs in the outermost bolt holes (just a few turns, they shouldn't be tight). Place the gasket onto the studs (that will keep it in place and aligned) and then slide the manifold over the studs. Allow the studs to help support/align the manifold while installing the center bolts.
Remove the studs and install the remaining two bolts...

[jrsick]

Thanks jparsons, that sounds like the best way to get mating surfaces and gasket aligned. I'm going to the boat after our storm this week and take out an exhaust manifold bolt to match up at hardware store. I'll get studs if I can find them, and buzz off the bolt heads if I can't.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by jrsick

Speedy, you've convinced me, I will remove the riser. I was overly concerned about breaking the seal between manifold and riser but I will have to be precise.

Mike, I have dry joint. That's another reason why I'll remove the riser. Last riser gasket I replaced was the 4-channel style, 2-channel should be easier. Glad you asked because I didn't think about dry vs wet.
Boat has been fresh water for all of it's 63-hour life. I drove to Smith Mountain Lake to get it. Drove back home through 80 miles of road construction; jersey barriers right on the lane lines and trucks next to me.

Not sure what you mean by 4-channel; dry joint has center exhaust port and to front and back a round coolant port.

Wet joint has center exhaust port surrounded by a coolant port on all 4 sides.

[jrsick]

Mike,
I think channels refers to number of water passages in the elbow; 4 channels is wet joint, 2 channels is dry joint. Not my term, parts reps at Marine Engine and Perf Pro both used that lingo. I just mimicked because that's what I do.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by jrsick

Mike,
I think channels refers to number of water passages in the elbow; 4 channels is wet joint, 2 channels is dry joint. Not my term, parts reps at Marine Engine and Perf Pro both used that lingo. I just mimicked because that's what I do.

That makes sense, guess I was confused when you said you have dry joint then said the last gasket you replaced was 4 channel. You must have been referring to another boat.

[jrsick]

Update:
Plan: remove manifold and elbow as one piece.
Reality: had to remove elbow first then manifold. I couldn't get the rubber hose off of the elbow while elbow was still connected to the manifold. Manifold and elbow together probably weigh 75 lbs or more and I was unable to finesse them out as one unit and disconnect the hose.
Otherwise, all went very well.
Photo of site of leak and adjacent bolt is attached.
Job is not finished because I need to order a gasket for the riser. I am going to replace the spark plugs also since they are just staring at me.

Thanks so much for your help on this. I'm going back to boat this week to finish and will add a few more pics.

[speedysprocket]

Good deal

[mmwjr]

Glad you figured it out and it's a easy fix.

[Kevlar7r]

For the block to manifold gasket, go to your local auto parts store. They generally sell a SBC exhaust gasket that has hooks rather than holes for the 2 outermost bolts. This made aligning everything easier.

Lift assembled manifold-riser-elbow in to place, insert front and rear bolts by hand a couple of threads. Then drop hooked gasket in from above, insert middle 2 bolts, and begin torquing. Made it much easier than trying to slide on with gasket over bolts in place or permatexing gasket in place.

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[Kevlar7r]

I still had the part number.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/m...690?q=MRG+150A

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[jrsick]

Kevlar, thanks for the part number and recommendation. I've installed the exhaust manifold gasket on the port side, but will try this one when I do starboard side.
I used the Quicksilver gasket (#27-33395). It appeared to be the same as the one I replaced. The bright silver sealing material used in this gasket is excellent, and a real chore to remove. It was also a low price for a boat part.
This gasket had holes, vice hooks, on each end. I used support studs as described by jparsons and feel confident that the gasket was correctly aligned. Haven't started the engine yet because I am waiting for the elbow gasket to come in. I had not planned on replacing this gasket, but changed my plan during removal process.
I would like to see video of someone lifting "manifold-riser-elbow in to place". I'm sure it's done all the time, and I had planned on doing it also, but could not figure it out. I could not work the exhaust hose off of the elbow with elbow and manifold installed on engine. I had to remove elbow separately and work the hose off with plastic pry tools. I don't think I could have removed it any other way. I've got a 5.0 in a 21 ft bowrider, so I'm kneeling on the rear cushion and reaching out and down to the manifold. No room for second person to get a grip on anything.
I'm going to do the other side this winter, so I would appreciate any techniques you have for this process. Thanks for the reply.