Cracked Block & Replacement/Repair Alternatives

[rider248]

I've been informed that the engine in my '98 2000 SCL was not properly winterized & suffered crack(s); marine mechanic recommended replacement at $7500. Searching for alternatives & options and would welcome any and all productive input. I have to be a realist & admit that, although mechanically inclined and equipped with tools, I'm not certain I have the confidence to tackle this project myself unless somebody has devised "An Idiot's Guide to Marine Engine Repair or Replacement".

Scrapping the boat is NOT an option. It's fully loaded, was very well maintained by the previous owner and was purchased during a divorce dispute for only $2500. With what's been added and the extras + options + toys it's appraised at around 10k. I'm stubborn (or stupid!) & will not have this craft go to waste.

If replacement is inevitable, considering stepping up from 305 to 350.

Thoughts, suggestions, warnings, ideas....lemme have 'em!

[biggerseagar]

First welcome to the website Rider.

I would check around to different marinas for prices. Sounds like you don't have much invested so if you got the bank roll do whatever it takes. I would stay with the 305 because everything will fit back together. Is the block the only thing you are replacing or is this a whole new engine you have to get? Sounds like a brand new engine. Get a the "Boating" mag and in back with all the adds you will see a rebuilt drop-engine starts around $3 grand.

Labor not engine parts is what will be expensive so if you want to tackle something like this you will save money doing it yourself.

I sure others will chime in to help,

Roger

[rider248]

Thanks, Roger! Mechanic quoted $4000 for remanufactured engine, $3500 for labor, 2 week turnaround. I've yet to tackle a mechanical project that I couldn't complete but am not afraid to admit that this scares me. I want it done right & respect a business's right to be profitable, but $110 an hour hurts.

As for 305 vs. 350, we just cruise, tube & ski so more power isn't necessarily a concern. I did see a post that 350's were more popular & therefore more available for less. I'll have to research that also.

I just need somebody to smack me upside the head to get my attention & convince me that I can do this myself. Would offer that opportunity to my wife but she'd enjoy it too much!

[biggerseagar]

Rider if you have the $$$$$'s go with the 7500. Two weeks you have a warranty plus a boat to use.

On the other hand do you have all the eqipment to pull an engine out?Rental? Costly

Time, how valuable is your time? Do you have time?

Think this over...before you jump :-)

Roger

[rider248]

Good news! I have found a remanufactured engine with a warranty AND a reputable, trustworthy mechanic to install it. Total estimated savings: $3300.

QUESTION: In researching the posts I've noticed numerous recommendations for stepping up to the 5.7L 350 over the current (and cracked) 5.0L 305. Are these engines interchangeable with the same mounts, pumps, manifolds etc. or am I asking for trouble by trying to add some OOMPH? As per above post from Roger, there's already 1 vote for sticking with the 305.

Opinions & feedback welcome!

[mmwjr]

Rider welcome.

The 350 will bolt right in. The one thing to look at is if the old fuel pump is mechanical or electric and what the new block is set up for.

[mmwjr]

Since the engine was not winterized properly what about the exhaust as it is water cooled as well?

[rider248]

Thanks, Mike. I guess I need to educate myself on what is included when one buys a remanufactured engine. Am I just buying the block, cylinder heads, oil pan & such & then stripping other components from the old engine? I also need to determine how to know if the manifolds were cracked in the freeze. Lots to learn.

[mmwjr]

Typically a rebuilt long block is the block with crank, rods, pistons, cam and gears, and heads. No tin (oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover) , no intake or exhaust, no flywheel, no...


Go to a marine engine web site such as Doug Russell and look at what a rebuilt engine comes with then a new long block and then a complete engine.

If all bolt on's are good either the new or rebuilt is the way to go

[rider248]

That's what I need to determine....what exactly was damaged beyond use, what comes on a "remanufactured" engine, whether a reman is better than a rebuilt is better than a used, etc etc. I'm not shy about admitting that I'm new to this experience and need some pointers, advice, guidance, whatever. Better to admit that I need help than to get in the middle of a reservoir and discover that my stupidity put my family at risk.

Again, I'll take ANY info available! Thanks for the responses so far...keep 'em coming.

[mmwjr]

I installed a new long block in my last boat. I made the decision to go that way because it came with a flywheel all tin and water pump. I figured the few extra dollars were worth it.

A rebuilt long block is also a good option as long as the rebuilder is a trusted place, google them to look for comments.

[mmwjr]

Forgot if you do not have a vortec engine now (12 bolt intake) and go to a vortec you will need a new intake as it has (8 bolts) the difference is a few more HP and will be the only option in the new block as well as the need for an electric fuel pump

[rider248]

I'm at a disadvantage since I'm trying to research resources for engine replacement while traveling for work, so I'm not close to the Maxum for reference. Sorry if these questions seem stupid but at this point my need for info supersedes my ego.
QUESTIONS:
1. On damaged engine, how do I determine if fuel pump is electric or not?
2. Same with "Vortec"; how to identify?
3. Better to go "short" or "long" block? Damaged engine was a remanufactured 5.0 dropped in 2-3 years ago. Prior to winter everything worked great, no leaks of any fluids, all components clean as a whistle and functioning smoothly.
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER 0L063002, manufactured in 1998
Have decided for the sake of simplicity to stay with 5.0 vs. 5.7. I don't run top speed or WOT, just cruising & water sports, so add'l HP is not a must, BUT if it greatly affects the resale value then that would be a consideration.

[mmwjr]

Nothing stupid here, trying to make bestdecision is very smart.

To keep it simple get a rebuilt long block for a 1998 that way it is exactly the same engine.

1. mechanical fuel pump bolt to front starboard side of the engine, electric is installed on front of engine.
2. 1998 is prevotec. prevortec has 12 bolt intake manifold, vortec has 8 bolt intake manifold.
3. Since you don't know what all is damaged (heads may have craks as well as they are thinner than the block) on the old engine I would go with the long block.

Ask away

[rider248]

Great info, Mike! I was becoming confused re: Vortec/preVortec as some websites listed '98s as being the first Vortecs on the market. Now I know what to look for. Again, have decided to keep it simple and not get swept up by issues of increasing power, adding anything fancy to the equation, etc. Old engine was fine for our needs & I'll keep the same size powerplant for the repower.

More questions will pop up so please keep an eye on this thread. Here's one: I assume I need to have the manifolds checked for cracks since earlier post indicated that they might be damaged also. You're saying that heads aren't included on a long block purchase, correct? Are they expensive? Recommendations for any particular source?

Wade

[mmwjr]

Yes the manifolds and elbows should be checked.

No a long block includes the heads a short block doesn't.

For reference here is what a long block is http://www.ebasicpower.com/propowergold/

[ss3964spd]

Also, a 305 and 350 have the same external dimension's. Indeed, one cannot just look at the two and determine which is which. A same year 350 will be a direct replacement for the 305.

I've never heard a boat owner wish for less power. While the 350 may not increase the resale value of the boat by a substantial amount it will make the boat more desirable on the market. The 350 will make more power everywhere in the Rev range. Fuel usage difference will be minimal.

[rider248]

I'm back on the fence regarding 305 vs. 350. Everything I've read indicates that if an upgrade is possible, do it. The engines that I have found are priced exactly the same for either one. Armed with that information and the fact that a 350 long-block will drop right in with the same mounts as a 305, there really is no good reason to NOT step up.

QUESTION: Will the add-ons & components from the damaged 305 transfer to a similar 350?

[mmwjr]

QUESTION: Will the add-ons & components from the damaged 305 transfer to a similar 350? YES

[njones]

Rider, I have a 350 in the machine shop that will be available soon. It was originally a Crusader 270. I'm not far from you if your interested in it.

I have done about all the chevy based engine swaps you can do to a boat. Give me a text/call if you wish and we can discuss.


Nick Jones
256.616.1520
Decatur, AL