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Old 07-28-2014, 07:00 PM   #1
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Default Click Click

Click Click was the dreaded sound a couple of weekends ago when trying to start up my 2000 2300SC 5.7. I had long enough cables to jump start the boat from my truck, luckily...

I had replaced the Intake Gasket & Exhaust gaskets this spring (posted "a gallon of water in engine oil") and since replaced the batteries. Now I believe I hooked up something incorrectly - or not at all pertaining to the charging system.

After the last trip (where the boat needed a jump start), I put the battery charger on for a whole day. Batteries were charged and I turned the battery switch to "Off" to prevent any drain as I was suspect something was not right.

This last weekend, I was keeping an eye on it. The boat did start, Amp meter looked to operate as normal.
Later in the day after stopping several times, upon start-up, while at idle, the Amp gauge reads 11 Volts for a short period. After a minute or two the alternator kicks on - I believe this is the case due to the sound of the added load on the engine as well as the Amp gauge jumping to 15 Volts. The Amp Gauge will show 15 volts for the entire time the engine is running. After running the engine for a good hour to 1-1/2 hours, I pulled the boat home and found that the batteries were low.

This leads me to believe the alternator is charging but the charge is not getting to my batteries.
I did look at the alternator and everything is connected and tight. I think it may be in something I disconnected while removing the Intake & Exhaust manifolds.

You guys have always helped tremendously, do you have any suggestions on where I should look? Or a charging system wiring diagram for a 2000 5.7 liter Mercruiser 2BBL Alpha1?

Thanks for all of your help...
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:23 PM   #2
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When charging the alternator should not put out more than 13.5V. The voltage regulator in the alternator may be bad. Some automotive stores can test it for you if you remove it and take it in.
Are the battery connections clean and tight?

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Old 07-28-2014, 07:27 PM   #3
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The battery connections are clean & tight. Thanks for the diagram, I will have to take a look at all of the connections but I bet I will be pulling the alternator and taking it in like you suggest.
Thanks for the quick response!! You are the best!
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Old 07-28-2014, 08:56 PM   #4
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Get a load test done on your battery.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:28 PM   #5
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Sounds like the charging lead coming off the alternator is NOT connected to the perko switch or your battery bank(s) correctly. I had the same problem when my lead came loose in the back of the alternator… the system is sensing low or NO voltage so the alternator is pumping out everything it can and it’s going nowhere.

http://www.maxumownersclub.com/forum...e-please/page2
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Old 08-01-2014, 12:33 AM   #6
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I've had similar situation with a "bad" brand new battery. I would have the battery tested as mentioned above.
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Old 08-01-2014, 02:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spydermann22 View Post
I think it may be in something I disconnected while removing the Intake & Exhaust manifolds. // This leads me to believe the alternator is charging but the charge is not getting to my batteries.
All good advice but let’s not overlook the basics of trouble shooting. The interracial question here is “what changed” I’ve been a mechanic all my life and for the past 20 some years a computer scientist. Every time I get a call about a broken system the FRIST question I ask is “what changed” This should always be your starting point.

It worked, you changed something and now it does not This is not to say something didn't just go bad in the process, but retracing your steps will lead you to the problem 95% of the time.
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Old 08-01-2014, 04:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneradride View Post
All good advice but let’s not overlook the basics of trouble shooting. The interracial question here is “what changed” I’ve been a mechanic all my life and for the past 20 some years a computer scientist. Every time I get a call about a broken system the FRIST question I ask is “what changed” This should always be your starting point.

It worked, you changed something and now it does not This is not to say something didn't just go bad in the process, but retracing your steps will lead you to the problem 95% of the time.
+1 what Darren said however with 33 years as a EE I look at the recent change FIRST and not FRIST, but that's just me
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Old 08-01-2014, 04:39 PM   #9
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Roflmao... I said Interracial too…. I meant “integral” damn spell ck
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Old 08-02-2014, 12:59 AM   #10
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The alternator usually need a brief bump in rpm to get it up to ~13.5 volts.

If the battery checks out, a test light will help you find a battery drain. Disconnect all the positive cables on the battery. One at a time, hook them up in series with the test light. You may have a Mercathode, CO detector, stereo memory or bilge pump that's draining the battery.

FYI: I like to keep a jump pack on board. If nothing else, it's helped other boaters from time to time.
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:34 AM   #11
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Those jump packs are AWESOME, I have one also… Still need to find the root cause though. Before you do a “parasitic drain test” take a multimeter and check the large lug on the alternator. (Purple wire in Mikes diagram above) Does it read the same as the gauge?

This purple wire (I believe) is your problem…...of course I’m not there

Then take the same multimeter and check the battery… not the same reading? Not charging…. Purple wire problem.
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