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05-03-2017, 06:57 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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Boat will not start
I own a 2300sc with a mercruiser 5.7 L thunderbolt 5 ignition engine. I hook up the muffs with my hose and turn the water on. I open my engine bay cover to allow fumes to exit and turn my blower on to rush the process. I then turn the key to the on position, all gauges come on but there is an alarm sounding not sure what it's for. Then I push my neutral button and push the throttle forward half way. After that, I go to start the engine and sometimes it clicks but sometimes the starter engages but it's not fast enough to start the engine.
I took battery out and charged fully then put it back in. I also tried with my battery charger hooked up.
I checked the wires for looseness and the "red button" to ensure the circuit breaker wasn't tripped. All is good.
I went behind the ignition switch and "hot wired" the two wires to make sure the ignition switch was good.
When a wire from the starter caught fire I put it out and quit immediately.
*I started my boat about 2 1/2 months ago with no issues at all. Cranked right up and ran for about 10-15 minutes.
Anyone possibly know what the problem is and where to get fixed? I live right by fort Bragg, nc.
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05-03-2017, 07:51 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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Why did you feel the need to hot wire it when the starter was engaging? Sounds like a bad solenoid but that would not cause the wire to catch fire ...
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05-03-2017, 08:33 PM
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#3
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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The starter stopped engaging so I wanted to go through the list of possibilities that I knew of.
The solenoid is the bracket looking thing that has a bunch of connections on it on top of the engine by the carborator correct?
The fire may have been from me trying over and over again trying to start it... maybe the starter got too hot? I don't really know.
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05-03-2017, 11:07 PM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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First it sounds like a bad slave soleniod which is mounted next to the engine breaker.
Second what wire caught on fire? Battery wire or one of the smaller ones. What color? This will need repair or replacement but not enough info to help here.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-04-2017, 02:36 AM
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#5
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Ensign
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 11
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It's a black wire only about 3" long. Looks to have both ends connected to the starter itself. It's towards the front of the starter (White part is where it caught fire) wire still connected It was the wire cover that caught fire.
The starter solenoid... what exactly does that do? Where would be a good place to get one?
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05-04-2017, 02:55 AM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Cannot make out where the wire is connected to. What terminals?
The slave soleniod is engaged when the ignition key is in the start position and then applies power to the starter. You can get it from a mercruiser dealer, online or westmarine store. About $25 US
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-04-2017, 12:20 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Looking at the picture on a PC instead of an iPad that is a ground that goes from the starter solenoid to the body of the starter.
BTY have you checked that the battery connections a clean and tight as well as the other ends of these cables?
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-04-2017, 01:47 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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You bypassed the solenoid and wired the starter THROUGH the ignition? The purpose of a solenoid is to allow the solenoid to be the switch between the battery and a device with a significant amperage draw, like a starter. This requires positive and negative wires large enough to handle the amperage draw. The ignition switch is a low voltage switch that electrically closes the gate on the solenoid completing that circuit. It prevents the long run of large gauge wire and the delivery of amperage all the way from the batteries to the ignition on the dash, then back to the starter.
It sounds like you overloaded the ignition circuit. I would consider replacing the wires that you caught on fire.
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05-04-2017, 01:51 PM
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#9
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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Incidentally, I would suggest a volt meter. I like to work from the device back to the batteries.
1) Verify there is amperage on the device (Starter)
2) Verify there is amperage at the solenoid.
3) Verify there is amperage at the battery.
Inspect any devices or connections between where you're getting a working reading and where you're getting no reading. sometimes this process requires two people.
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05-04-2017, 05:14 PM
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#10
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew
Incidentally, I would suggest a volt meter. I like to work from the device back to the batteries.
1) Verify there is amperage on the device (Starter)
2) Verify there is amperage at the solenoid.
3) Verify there is amperage at the battery.
Inspect any devices or connections between where you're getting a working reading and where you're getting no reading. sometimes this process requires two people.
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1-3 verify amperage or voltage? A standard voltmeter is not designed for these high currents.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-04-2017, 08:42 PM
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#11
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Is the engine seized or hydrolocked?
That wire that caught fire is the positive power to the actual starter motor (from solenoid to starter). That means you didn't have an electrical problem before, but likely have one now.
Put a socket on the nut in the center of the harmonic balancer, and manually turn the engine through a few turns.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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05-05-2017, 01:39 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
1-3 verify amperage or voltage? A standard voltmeter is not designed for these high currents.
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Voltage. The minute I read your reply I thought 'come on, of course voltage, how in the world would it be amperage?" DOH!!!! I don't know what I was thinking there. Many thanks!
Sidenote: I somehow reversed amperage and voltage AGAIN in this reply. I hit submit, then re-read the post and had to edit it. I don't know what is going on in my head. This juggling of buying a new boat, selling the old boat has got my head spinning.
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05-05-2017, 03:54 PM
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#13
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew
Voltage. The minute I read your reply I thought 'come on, of course voltage, how in the world would it be amperage?" DOH!!!! I don't know what I was thinking there. Many thanks!
Sidenote: I somehow reversed amperage and voltage AGAIN in this reply. I hit submit, then re-read the post and had to edit it. I don't know what is going on in my head. This juggling of buying a new boat, selling the old boat has got my head spinning.
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We have all been there.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-17-2017, 09:11 PM
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#14
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Captain
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 746
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Any update on this? Curious what the outcome was.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
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05-17-2017, 09:25 PM
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#15
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 9
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What amperage would you expect to see there?
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05-17-2017, 10:39 PM
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#16
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysfunctional
What amperage would you expect to see there?
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Depends on where he made the jump, battery has 500 plus amps depending on its size. Battery wire goes directly to the starter. There are low current wires to activate the soleniod at around 10 amps.
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__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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