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05-13-2014, 01:51 PM
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#1
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Boat no start in water...
The exhaust bellows is dry rotted to a point where I can stick my finger in it. Could this be the cause of my engine not starting while the boat is in the water.
Things checked:
Getting gas-yes,
Searched for short and found some in the lighting - fixed.
found previous owner had battery cutoff switch installed (under rated for amperage) - removed
Starts on trailer with earmuffs - yes
Played with putting in and out of gear on trailer (neutral switch) and cranks every time.
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05-13-2014, 02:23 PM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,690
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I doubt it. The boat starts just fine out of the water while it is on muffs. And this is with the bellows completely out of the water. i'm not sure that matters. I don't see why you would need backpressure. I would assume the shift and shaft bellows were replaced at the same time as the exhaust bellows. If the exhaust is in this that bad a shape, I would expect the rest to be as well. I would advise you have all the bellows along with the gimbal bearing replaced before launching the boat again.
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05-13-2014, 05:17 PM
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#3
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,624
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A bad exhaust bellows should not prevent the boat from starting.
1. Runs on trailer, correct?
2. Does the engine cranck when in the water?
3. Did you check for spark?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-14-2014, 01:52 AM
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#4
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Runs on trailer-yes
cranks in water-yes
checked for spark-How? Take plug out and ground it to engine?
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05-14-2014, 03:30 AM
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#5
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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Yes on the spark check.
Has it run on the trailer since it would not run in the water? I really have a hard time identifying the difference.
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05-14-2014, 12:55 PM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,624
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To check spark you can
1. remove 1 wire and hold it close to ground while someone cranks the engine, you may get a shock.
2. remove wire and plug, attache wire to plug and lay the metal part of the plug on a good ground. crank and look to sewe if it sparks.
3. get a spark gap tester from a auto store. test is similar to #2.
If no spark then time to measure for voltages at coil and ignition system.
Have to ask but is the saftey switch at the helm in the run position?
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-14-2014, 09:05 PM
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#7
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Will check spark next time I can get it to the ramp to put it in the water...
This has been very frustrating: Always starts on the trailer, put it in the water and some times no... (took it out on the spring test run with just me and it started in the water. Put 4 adults in and it wont start. thats why I thought it might be the exhaust...
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05-14-2014, 10:11 PM
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#8
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,624
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"Put 4 adults in and it wont start." Boats love to embarrass us.
I know of no reason why the exhaust would cause this issue.
Cranks Ok, then it's a matter of air (free), gas, and fire. You stated gas is squirting into carb. If there is spark then I would look at flooding the engine or timing. If no spark then time to check ignition.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-21-2014, 03:35 PM
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#9
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Still haven't gotten to the water to check spark, but did check timing on the trailer and it was spot on.
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05-28-2014, 01:58 AM
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#10
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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This is the ignition coil, might have something to do with it...
also, I remembered that the plugs were the ones installed when I got the boat. The were covered in carbon and all gapped wrong...
[ATTACH][/ATTACH]
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05-28-2014, 02:13 AM
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#11
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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Back to the OP... Why are you putting a boat with rotted bellows in the water in the first place?
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05-28-2014, 03:24 AM
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#12
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzins101
This is the ignition coil, might have something to do with it...
also, I remembered that the plugs were the ones installed when I got the boat. The were covered in carbon and all gapped wrong...
[ATTACH][/ATTACH]
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Yep all that would equal poor spark
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-28-2014, 04:51 PM
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#13
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillbo
Back to the OP... Why are you putting a boat with rotted bellows in the water in the first place?
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I am new at owning a boat and rely heavily on the advice I get. That advice from a friend was "everything else looked good and the exhaust bellows wouldn't hurt anything.."
Well, I was able to replace the exhaust bellows without removing the lower unit. (wont try that again)
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05-28-2014, 04:55 PM
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#14
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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SOOOOO... This week I will have replaced:
all old spark plugs
severely corroded ignition coil and cable
broken exhaust shutters
torn exhaust bellows
manifold riser gaskets
Going to try to test it on Sat. if all parts get put it!
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06-04-2014, 10:03 PM
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#15
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Well, still no good...
Put it in the water and it started right up, took it for a spin. Came back to the dock sat for about 10 min and it started up just fine!
The next day we went out to the island and all was good. Went to leave and the engine just turned over(no start). After fooling with it for a bit, it started and ran. I put it in gear and the engine died! After trying for a while again (by now with some friendly passer by) he held the shutter down on the carburetor and it started.
When we got back to the dock, I put the boat in reverse and that killed it again!
I am dumbfounded and frustrated!
Could this be a fuel issue? ugh!
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06-05-2014, 01:36 AM
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#16
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Everett wa
Posts: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzins101
Well, still no good...
Could this be a fuel issue? ugh!
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I would think it must be a fuel issue at this point. You seem to have addressed any ignition issue.
I would lean toward a fuel pump if the issue happened under load....but there isn't much load starting.
Have you changed/cleaned all the fuel filters?
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06-05-2014, 02:37 AM
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#17
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Admiral
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lake Powell
Posts: 1,613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzins101
The next day we went out to the island and all was good. Went to leave and the engine just turned over(no start). After fooling with it for a bit, it started and ran. I put it in gear and the engine died! After trying for a while again (by now with some friendly passer by) he held the shutter down on the carburetor and it started.
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What kind of "fooling with it" were you doing and what is a "shutter"? Are you saying you have to manually choke the carb to get it started?
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06-05-2014, 03:12 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzins101
Well, still no good...
Put it in the water and it started right up, took it for a spin. Came back to the dock sat for about 10 min and it started up just fine!
The next day we went out to the island and all was good. Went to leave and the engine just turned over(no start). After fooling with it for a bit, it started and ran. I put it in gear and the engine died! After trying for a while again (by now with some friendly passer by) he held the shutter down on the carburetor and it started.
When we got back to the dock, I put the boat in reverse and that killed it again!
I am dumbfounded and frustrated!
Could this be a fuel issue? ugh!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillbo
What kind of "fooling with it" were you doing and what is a "shutter"? Are you saying you have to manually choke the carb to get it started?
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I suspect Cuzins101 is referring the butterfly valve on the carb. Choking it should 'close' the valve. Hence 'choking' off the air supply. In this case it is described as 'Held the shutter down' which to me sounds like 'choking' the engine.
Later the engine is running fine until you put it into gear, then it stalls. To me this sounds like possibly two problems:
1) Automatic choke is not working properly. It shoudl automatically choke when necessary.
2) Shift Interrupt is not adjusted properly. The shift interrupt should automatically stall the engine for a split second as you move the shifter from neutral to in-gear (FWD or REVERSE). It should then stop the interupt. The entire thing happens in a plit second and the momentum of the engine essentially 'jump-starts' itself again. IF the interrupt is too long, the engine will stall. This can also occur if your 'Lily-shifting' it into and out of gear. I believe (and hope to be corrected if so) that an improperly adjusted shift cable can do this as well.
It MIGHT be the same problem with the choke in both cases, however i would be looking at these two things specifically.
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06-06-2014, 04:46 PM
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#19
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,624
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+1 what shrew said
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-06-2014, 05:01 PM
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#20
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Lieutenant
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrew
I suspect Cuzins101 is referring the butterfly valve on the carb. Choking it should 'close' the valve. Hence 'choking' off the air supply. In this case it is described as 'Held the shutter down' which to me sounds like 'choking' the engine.
Later the engine is running fine until you put it into gear, then it stalls. To me this sounds like possibly two problems:
1) Automatic choke is not working properly. It shoudl automatically choke when necessary.
2) Shift Interrupt is not adjusted properly. The shift interrupt should automatically stall the engine for a split second as you move the shifter from neutral to in-gear (FWD or REVERSE). It should then stop the interupt. The entire thing happens in a plit second and the momentum of the engine essentially 'jump-starts' itself again. IF the interrupt is too long, the engine will stall. This can also occur if your 'Lily-shifting' it into and out of gear. I believe (and hope to be corrected if so) that an improperly adjusted shift cable can do this as well.
It MIGHT be the same problem with the choke in both cases, however i would be looking at these two things specifically.
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Shrew- Yes, he manually held down the butterfly valve on the carb. I guess, I'll start with the carb and move on to the shift interrupt from there...
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