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Old 08-21-2017, 04:54 PM   #21
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I flush with fresh water EVERY TIME I take the boat out, which forces fresh water back out the drive, too, with hopes I won't get any barnacles growing in there. And my exhaust elbows aren't so hot that I can't touch them, which also makes me think the heat exchanger isn't pulling heat out like it should. Will clean the passages out this week.
Also dropping the prop off tonight. $108, but there's a good chance of Bravo II props breaking when they try to put the new hub in....
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:59 PM   #22
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that's called "bravoitus" or "Bravo Disease" google it
I'm extremely familiar with it. I had to replace a transom assembly to address it. Though I've never heard it referred to as such.
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Old 08-23-2017, 09:58 PM   #23
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$104 for new hub (prop didn't break!) and they blasted it and sprayed anti fouling paint for me!
If you've never seen the rubber hub before it's pressed in, it's pretty amazing such a big hunk or rubber fits in that little hole, and that it can transfer 300+ hp to the blades!
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:43 PM   #24
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Any progress with the hot engine?
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:44 PM   #25
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Any progress with the hot engine?


Barnacle buster isn't scheduled to arrive till Saturday. Sunday or Monday I'll do the flush.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:37 PM   #26
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Well descaling the engine didn't make a difference.
I know I have some weak cylinders. Would a bad head gasket cause it to run hot? I'm not getting water in the oil, but I guess it could be blown into an oil galley/passage?
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Old 09-05-2017, 10:00 PM   #27
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Well descaling the engine didn't make a difference.
I know I have some weak cylinders. Would a bad head gasket cause it to run hot? I'm not getting water in the oil, but I guess it could be blown into an oil galley/passage?

Yes, I had a car with a warped head that ran hot but no coolant in the oil.
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Old 09-06-2017, 12:02 AM   #28
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Yes, I had a car with a warped head that ran hot but no coolant in the oil.


Yeah, I'm formulating my plan now to get this done in a week. We shall see if it pans out that way...
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:00 PM   #29
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Just pulled the heads and dropped them off for rebuild. Definite blown head gasket.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:01 PM   #30
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Just pulled the heads and dropped them off for rebuild. Definite blown head gasket.
Can't say I'm surprised. Well at least you know the issue.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:17 PM   #31
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Yup. Glad it was between cylinders and not water to oil like the other engine. The bores still look great on this engine!
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:20 PM   #32
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Getting frustrated and sad now. Power seems a little better, but still not what the other engine is. But it still over heats as soon as I open the throttles.
Just verified that the raw water pump is in good shape. I'm wondering if the oil cooler is clogged. I've physically cleared all the raw water tubes in the heat exchanger. My only other clue is that the exhaust elbows are much hotter than the other engine...
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:40 PM   #33
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Should I cut the little holes out in the elbow gaskets so more water can flow? All my hot water goes in the bottom of the manifolds, not at the elbows too like raw water cooling.
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Old 09-24-2017, 03:46 AM   #34
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Ah I think I figured it out! May have wasted a bunch of time pulling the heads. Found this in the oil cooler. Remnants of the last raw water Impeller from when I bought the boat. Only confusing part is how it took 1 1/2 seasons to get this bad... I was completely blocked, though. Should cool better now.
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:37 PM   #35
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That will definitely block flow. Hopefully the issue is now resolved.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:56 PM   #36
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Yup, ran great just now!
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