If your fuse block/holder is anything like mine WAS... it could very easily be a loose fuse, as the "sockets" that holds the fuses are poorly-made in my opinion. I had to replace BOTH fuse blocks a couple years ago due to loose-fitting fuses. An odd problem for sure... but I couldn't get the water pump, lights, radio, trim tabs, refrigerator... seemed everything that ran it's power through that fuse block (located under the steering wheel, behind the snap-in cloth panel I'm sure you know) to work as they ended up working their way loose and power was inturrupted to the 12V device. Initially the problem looked like a blown fuse, as replacing them seemed to work (temporarily). I tweaked so many GD blade fuses over two seasons to make them fit (by "splitting/seperating" the blades slightly) that I finally broke down and replaced both factory-installed fuse blocks with SeaLand's high-quality blocks. This is my 3rd season with those SeaLand blocks and I haven't had ONE problem... no blown fuses, no "loose-fitting" fuses... a night and day difference. It was a 5 hour job if memory serves, one I look back on and am quite proud of actually!---considering how many projects I've done on Endless Summer that turned out crappy (I ain't no Bella Sera!). Putting my 5'11", 230 lb body into the tight place you have be to work on replacing those two fuse panels/blocks was quite uncomfortable... but ended up being worth it.
Since the season is almost over, you can probably just do the "fuse-tweaking" I did for the next month or so... then replace the blocks (if necessary) like I had to do in the off-season. But the trim tabs DO go through that fuse panel, good luck trying to find a schematic that shows what slot controls what... I never could even after doing the SeeLand block replacements. We have the exact, same boat (2001 2900 SCR) so that's my two-cents worth!
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Jeff Means
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