Trim Switches for trailer and outdrive on 24' SCR

[A Little Nauti]

Hi folks, looking for some expertise here on a problem. Seems my trim switch for the outdrive and trailering switch on my throttle handle was'nt working very well this fall when taking boat out for storage. Very intermittent action when trying to use them. Got lucky and got the outdrive up for the winter. Looking to repair or replace (preferably replace) the switches but can't seem to find any sites that sell these. Looks like everyone wants to sell you the entire throttle assembly. Any help here where I can locate the parts would be appreciated. Boat is a 1999 24' SCR with a 5.0 L mercruiser. Throttle has a thumb switch for outdrive trimming and another switch below that you hold in to put outdrive to trailer mode.

Thanks for any help,

A little Nauti

[pascavone]

10 to 1 is not your throttle switch but the solenoid on the trim tab pump is sticking.

your can test it by pulling the throttle harness plug off the trim tab pump, and using a jumper wire, stick the middle hole to the top hole (up), or the bottom hole (down).

if you have the same delay, its the trim pump solenoid, not the throttle switch.

[mmwjr]

I agree it's probably the soleniod. upper soleniod is up and will have the blue/white wire (blue = sky) (green = ground)

2 different switches control the same soleniod, therefore soleniod is single point failure.

[shrew]

I throw in a third on that one. A good inidicator and very temporary work around is to hit the switch in whichever direction you want to move the drive (up or down) 20 or so times as fast as you possibly can. It will usually finally catch for that one time. That is more for if you're in a jam. The contacts become corroded. The solenoid is a just a high amperage electric switch. When you toggle the up down switch the electricity throws the solenoid and completes the circuit. By hitting the switch a bunch of times, you'll hear the gate slamming closed. Do it enough times and it will wear down the corrosion in the contact spot and allow the circuit to be completed.

If your'e really in a jam you should be able to jumper the solenoid as well. That will complete the circuit just fine. I've done it with a screw driver across the posts. (Disclaimer: I'm not necessarily suggesting anyone do that).

[A Little Nauti]

Thanks Folks, did not think the solenoid was the problem but it looks like I may have to go back and check this out again. Much thanks for the help and will post what I find. Thankls again.

A Little Nauti

[mmwjr]

FYI just because you can hear the solenoid clicking doesn't mean it's working. The click is saying the low current side is getting power from the switch and is closing the contacts. The fault is typically the contacts get pitted which results in a high resistance contact and limits the current to the motor to the point it can't run.

Test is do you hear the soleniod click? Yes the low current side (switchs) are working. No then missing 12V, bad switch (doubt both would go bad), coil in solenoid is open.
If the above answer was yes then test motor. Use a screw drive and just across the solenoids 2 big terminals. If motor runs then solenoid is bad else trim motor is bad.

[Ken Kwasniak]

One other thing I noticed you said "Got lucky and got the outdrive up for the winter" You should not store the outdrive in the up position, it should always be down so the
bellows are in the relaxed position.

[mmwjr]

Yes what Ken said is correct plus if stored up the hub can fill with rain and freeze cracking the lower unit.

[biggerseagar]

I add a plastic lawn bag to the bottom of my bravo 2 drives to keep everything dry. The props are off so you can wrestle a bag starting from on top of the cavitation plate in front and they will fit. If I do get a little bit of water collecting in the bottom of the bag I just cut a couple of drain holes. Then I take painters tape and wrap it around. Done!

Happy Holidays

Roger