Replacing rocker switches in 1996 2100SR

[mcoffey]

Hi All, figured I should share what I have found through countless hours of research and frustration when trying to replace the rocker switches in this boat.
So first of all, shame on me for not looking closely at what I currently had in there!
So last year I decided I wanted to replace all of the weathered (and they do look pretty bad) rocker switches on the dash (there are 9 of them). My boat has the Euro style rockers that basically look like a Contura rocker but without lines or raised bumps, just a single indent about the size of a marble. They are also black in color (well they loo grey now due to weathering).

So I start looking for new rockers and decide to buy them from Paneltronics as I liked the style they had. I get them in and all is good so far. The look good and they are made by Carling (never a bad thing there).
So finally get around to the project last weekend. Pulled off the dash panel that had 5 rockers in it. Cleaned up the double sided tape, popped out the old rockers, took pics so I could wire the new one up correctly, all is good so far (did I mention I am an idiot at this point?).

So grab the new rockers so I could snap them into the panel, hey wait a minute, these won't fit!!!
Seems Maxum decided to use a rocker switch made by Arco Electric, made in England, and uses a much smaller cutout than normal rockers. The cutout is 1" x 1/2"!

So, all the rockers I bought will not work unless I remake the entire dash panel (not going to happen) so now I am off researching for new ones that will fit a 1 x 1/2 cutout.

Well, seems nobody makes a Contura style rocker that will fit that cutout. I do fine some normal (but ugly) rockers that will fit the cutout but I want to stay with a Contura style if all possible.
I look in the Arco Electric Catalog and find that they do not even list these style rockers at all, just normal style ones.
I then find Great Lakes Skipper has what I need but in White (or cream color). From that listing I was able to get the Arco Electri part # (which I should have noted on mine but again, I am an idiot). Then by knowing that part # and seeing how the scheme worked in the catalog I had, I was able to figure out what the black ones should be.

So then I start searching for the Arco part # and find this place:
http://www.oempartsllc.com/

Seems a bit shady but the only reviews I could find on them were positive so I give them a try.
It seems they have 2 of the 3 styles that I need so why not, the price was right too at $1.50 each

So, for all you older Maxum and Bayliner owners out there. If you want to replace your rocker switches and you have the below type, here is your place.

Standard SPST Off/On Rocker - Maxum # 31206, superceded to 1701375 (labled as Arco Electric # C1423EABB)
You can buy them here for $1.50 each and they have 34 left in stock as of today (sorry but I bought twice what I needed just in case
http://www.oempartsllc.com/switchroc...new-1-1-1.aspx

Standard SPST Off/Mom On Rocker - Maxum # 31207, superceded to 1701376 (labled as Arco Electric # C1424EABB)
You can buy them here for $1.50 each and they have 2,392 left in stock as of today (sorry but I bought twice what I needed just in case
http://www.oempartsllc.com/switchroc...ckarconew.aspx

So on my boat there is 9 total switches. There are 6 of the normal Off/On (and I bought 12). There are 2 of the normal Off/mom On (and I bought 4)(horn and depth sounder adjustment).

That leaves 1 switch left. That one is a DPST On/On switch that so far has been elusive. I have not been able to figure out the Arco # but I am sure it is something like C1425 or C1426 and then EABB but just guessing.
This switch is for the Anchor Light and it is wired so that you can turn on the Stern Light while at Anchor or if you turn on the nav Lights, it will turn on both Bow and Stern.
So far all I have on this unit is Maxum # 31208, superceded to 1701377. According to Bayliner, this part # is NLA (no longer available).

So at the moment I am stuck calling all the dealers I can find to see if one has any left in old stock.

Now I did have a promising call yesterday with a dealer north of Baltimore that said their computer showed 4 in stock. So far they have not been able to locate them though but if they do, I am buying 2 of them. This was at Riverside Marine in White Marsh, MD (their Essex location did not have any though).

If I get any further updates on this last switch, I will be sure to post here but hopefully what I have posted so far will help someone in this area.

Good luck and happy boating!

[mcoffey]

And I fogoet to add, these switches fit many models of Maxum, Bayliner and Trophy from around 1996 through around 2002.

[pascavone]

i replaced my cabin water pump switch so it lights up again when the pump is on.

I had to take a metal file to the existing whole and file it wider to fit.

so, your dash is plastic face and would not take much to file out side holes....

point is, "there always another problem......"

[mcoffey]

Originally Posted by pascavone

i replaced my cabin water pump switch so it lights up again when the pump is on.

I had to take a metal file to the existing whole and file it wider to fit.

so, your dash is plastic face and would not take much to file out side holes....

point is, "there always another problem......"

Yeah, the new ones I bought were lighted as I do like them better. In looking at the one panel I removed, the cutouts were too close together for me to expand all 5 to fit in there. Didn't want 1 or 2 new switches next to 3-4 old ugly switches
So my option was replace the panels and spread them further apart or just track down the original switches and deal with no lights on them.

[mcoffey]

Update on the 31208 - 1701377 On/On switch!

Riverside Marine in White Marsh, MD. found the 4 they showed as In Stock. I just bought 2 of them so they are left with 2 in stock. They cost just under $3.00 each plus shipping. I guess I should have bought all 4 but I really only need 1 and I did get a spare in case it fails. I also thought I would be nice in case someone else is in my position and needs one. Now they have a fighting chance of locating it

http://www.riversidemarine.com/Page....rsh-MD-MD.aspx

[mcoffey]

Last update
Recieved the wrong switches the first go around but that was their mistake. Finally got the correct ones. Here is the info on the switch in case anyone needs it.

Old Part # 31208, New Part # 1701377 -- This is an Arco Electric switch with C1425EA on the side though I believe the real part # should be C1425EABB ( the BB stands for Black rocker and Black body).

[ImRich]

Thanks for this info. For $1.50 each I may try to replace mine also.

What is the difference between the C1423EA and the C1425EA switches??

I see that that oempartsllc.com doesn't list the C1425EA any more, they only list the C1424E (off/momentary on) and the C1423EABB (off/on).

[mcoffey]

Hi Rich, the C1425EABB switch in an On/On switch and not an Off/On like the 1423. There is only 1 of these used on the boat and it is for the Anchor Light. I is basically a 3 wire switch that uses 2 power feeds to light the stern light. When in the down position (off position on the other switches), it uses power feed A wich is a jumper wire from the Nav Light Switch. So when you turn on the Nav Lights, power is feed to the jumper and it flows through the Anchor Light switch and powers the stern light. When it is in the Up position (on position on the other switches) it uses power feed B which is 12v from the fuse block and will power the Stern Light. So basically it is just a crazy setup that allows you to turn on the Stern Light while at Anchor and to also let the Stern Light come on with the Nav Light switch.

For this switch I just started calling all the local Bayliner dealers until I found one that had it in stock. The 6 closest I called did not have it but I did find Riverside Marine had 4 of them. I only bought 2 and they were only $2.50 each or somethin close to that. They are a bit far from me (north side of Baltimore) and I figured about a 2 -2 1/2 hour drive each way just to get them. They shipped them to me for $6 more and I had them in 2 days.

So I replaced all my rockers and have a spare set and only spent like $50 or something

[mcoffey]

BTW, did you look up your year and model to confirm these part numbers are correct for your boat? Mine is a 96 and I see yours in a 90. i did not look that far back in my research so I am not sure if they are the same or not. I guess pulling one of your old ones would tell too if you don't have the parts catalog handy.

[ImRich]

I'll take a look when I open the dash panel. I have to do that anyway to do some other work. They sure look the same to me!

[mcoffey]

Cool, and that is why I posted all of this. Figured someone, someday would want to replace their old and ugly rockers too. Hopefully I have saved you a few hours of looking and if they are the same, you can just order, install and be done.
I finally got around to putting mine in last weekend. My panels are attached to dash with double sided foam tape and I would say it too about 90 minutes to do with most of that time being removing the old tape from the panels. Just rub it and rub it and eventually it will all roll up and come off and then you can put new tape on and set it back in place.

man does it look nice now, don't have pics though, sorry.

Went from an old and faded grey color with pitting to a nice new dark black color.

[ImRich]

How did you get the dash panel itself to look better? Mine is a bit faded looking, but not as bad as those switches.

[mcoffey]

well, I have not gotten to that project yet
I have not decided what I am going to do to help there, may opt to pull them and paint them or something. That is all the woodgrain is, just paint.

[ShoreAcres]

My panel is still OK. I have to find some balck screws that have been lost. The lenses on my guages are faded. I was thinking of using the stuff they sell to polish up headlights to see if this brings them back. I have also heard toothpaste works. If not, I would consider swapping them out.

[ShoreAcres]

Polished the lens on one of my gauges with toothpaste. It took out most of the scratches and cloudiness. I will now do the rest. The gauge on top is done. Sorry could not rotate on my iPad.

[mcoffey]

Looking good! I have always had good luck with Meguirs PlastX cleaner and polish. Seems to get out all scratches and polishes up to a nice shine as well. You can probably find at local auto parts store too so may be worth a look over toothpaste.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Plast.../dp/B0000AY3SR

[ShoreAcres]

thanks I will pick some up this week. Toothpaste is pretty weird to deal with. I am going to try it on my black rocker switches as well.

[Paul Craft]

I replaced mine with Blue Illuminated Switches, about £1 each, look cool when its dark, if you change 1 at a time wire by wire you should have no problems.
Tried to upload picture but not working at the moment.

[Paul Craft]

picture attached