Push button start

[paulswagelock]

Anyone with a 2600/2700 SE cruiser has likely noticed the ignition switch is in the worst spot. I have broken 1 key and bent another with my knees over the past few seasons.
I decided to add a push button start and not use the key switch. I made a custom panel that mounts where the recessed holder is on the lower right side of the dash. It has an aviation style covered toggle and weatherproof push button. I got the wiring diagrams and found I can readily parallel off the key switch. I ran the power circuit through one of the spare accessory switches in the dash for anti theft protection.
Now the key switch is still in service, but I can use the new set up instead. No more broken keys.

[9Ball]

I have the same issue with my 2400 SCR... How about some pictures?

Todd

Sent from my VS920 4G using Tapatalk 2

[paulswagelock]

Originally Posted by 9Ball

I have the same issue with my 2400 SCR... How about some pictures?

Todd

Sent from my VS920 4G using Tapatalk 2

Here is the panel itself. I did not grab any photos of the install. I also included my installation sketch. Trying this from my ipad so not sure if pics will make it up.

[iceman]

Paul, I like this idea. I have the same problem with keys.

Just so I understand your approach: the way you wired it, to start the engine you'd turn on the accessory, then turn on the new "Run" switch, then press the Start switch. Is that correct?

And the anti-theft part works because you'd have to know that one of the accessory switches is in the circuit, right?

Tom

[paulswagelock]

Tom
That is correct. The aircraft toggle is also to shut off the engine.

[jrings]

would love to see a few pictures of your install...

[paulswagelock]

Originally Posted by jrings

would love to see a few pictures of your install...

My boat is in storage for the winter. I typically 'visit' it once a month or so. I will try to grab a picture next time. Not much to see really since the new panel fits exactly where the wallet holder was mounted (which was a black plastic molded insert). My new panel is shaped and drilled to fit it exactly, so I can remove 2 screws, disconnect wires, and screw the insert right back in if I decide to sell her.

[ss3964spd]

Neat idea Paul. Does the factory accessory switch interrupt the "Run" circuit or the "Start" circuit?

Question though, did you figure out the max amps that were going through the ignition switch when it was in the Run position? Just curious if the accessory switch can handle that load.

[paulswagelock]

The factory accessory switch interupts all power, so it will kill the run circuit and prevent the start circuit from completing.
The original key switch is fed from a 20 amp fuse protected feed, so the max current is less than 20 amp. The factory switches are also fed from 20 amp circuits, so capable of this service. The toggle switch I installed is rated 20a, and the push button is rated 60a.

[shrew]

I love innovation, but have to ask....

1) I assume that toggle shutoff really is a protected switch so you don't accidentally shut the motor off? So you would need to lift the cover in order to actuate the shutoff?

2) If you bend keys with your knees, then what is to stop you from hitting the starter while the engine is running?

3) Wouldn't it have just been easier to move the existing keyed switch?

4) What is to prevent anyone from starting the boat? Is there a keyed switch someone else that activates/deactivates the circuit?

[Huddo007]

Originally Posted by shrew

I love innovation, but have to ask....

1) I assume that toggle shutoff really is a protected switch so you don't accidentally shut the motor off? So you would need to lift the cover in order to actuate the shutoff?

2) If you bend keys with your knees, then what is to stop you from hitting the starter while the engine is running?

3) Wouldn't it have just been easier to move the existing keyed switch?

4) What is to prevent anyone from starting the boat? Is there a keyed switch someone else that activates/deactivates the circuit?

And question 5 - if no key to answer 4 - will your insurance be valid?

[paulswagelock]

The new location is away from my knees, egress path, steps to the bow, all the things that make the factory key location susceptible to bending and breaking. That switch will not get hit by accident. It is on the far starboard lower side of the instrument cluster. The safety toggle is up to run, and slamming it shut is the shut off, quicker than turning the key for an emergency shut down. Did not want to move the existing key since I will eventually get rid of the boat and I wanted no permanent modification or cosmetic issues. Theft protection- there are 14 toggle switches or so on the boat, and one of them is the secret energize switch. I guarantee a thief will hot-wire it long before he thinks to try every switch combination or think the key is not needed to energize it. The only boats ever taken from the marina were either hot wired, had a hideaway key that was found, or had a screwdriver twist the ignition switch. Lets face it, a phillips head screwdriver to remove 4 screws, and 2 alligator clips, and I could steal every boat in the marina. These things are far from theft proof. Heck, if its a runabout I don't even need the screwdriver as the ignition circuit is accessible from under the dash.

I appreciate all the questions as it makes me think and reconfirm I thought it through ahead of time.

[iceman]

Paul,
Can you list your source(s) for the aviation switch and the weatherproof pushbutton?

[paulswagelock]

I purchased them both at Advanced Auto parts locally. They are readily available. Summit racing online has them for instance. Toggle is around $12 and starter around $9.

[shrew]

[QUOTE=paulswagelock;26317]The new location is away from my knees, egress path, steps to the bow, all the things that make the factory key location susceptible..........................QUOTE]

Nice!! It sounds like you've got it covered.

[vffb507]

This sounds awesome, Ive thought obout doing something similar. The one question I have is: The accessory switch you used, I assume it was a spare, and not for a device? I've done very similar for vehicles (lots of theft of GM trucks in my area) and we usually just use an accessory (active) and wire it in line to the start only function. That way it doesn't stay on once running but can power the device parallel the start.

[paulswagelock]

Originally Posted by vffb507

This sounds awesome, Ive thought obout doing something similar. The one question I have is: The accessory switch you used, I assume it was a spare, and not for a device? I've done very similar for vehicles (lots of theft of GM trucks in my area) and we usually just use an accessory (active) and wire it in line to the start only function. That way it doesn't stay on once running but can power the device parallel the start.

It was a spare. It must remain on as it supplies the potential 12v source for the start and run circuits.