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01-26-2012, 01:38 AM
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#1
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Liberty Lake, WA... moored on Beautiful Coeur D' Alene Lake, ID
Posts: 199
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Moving the battery switch... ever done this?
On my 2001 2900 SCR, I'm contemplating moving the battery switch OUT of the engine compartment, to inside the port-side storage compartment. I think the heavy-gauge wiring (#4 is it?) will cost me a fortune for the few feet it has to move---I'll try to attach pictures here to illustrate---but has anyone ever "extended" their battery switch like this? There's a lot of friggin' wires going into this switch that I'm not sure I can even handle the project, and wonder if it's even worth doing----just so I don't have to lift up the engine compartment to switch batteries! I think it would be way more convenient to simply open the little port-side compartment door to gain access to this switch than having to hoist up the large engine compartment hatch, especially when people are in the rear salon standing on it, or there's stuff on the floor, etc... "Extending" the wires really isn't feasible I think... I believe one would have to entirely REPLACE these heavy-gauge wires, adding more cost to the project... or?
Thoughts from the Forum?
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Jeff Means
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01-26-2012, 04:38 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Jeff,
Yeah, completely replacing all the battery wires with the correct length would be the absolute best, and cleanest, way to do it but I see no problem with installing heavy duty lugs/posts and then adding extension cables to the relocated battery switch. In fact, this is how it's done in my wifes car as well as mine - both have the batteries in the trunk.
Your existing battery cables are probably 2AWG (they were on my 2004 2400 SC3) so you'll want to stick with that. Depending on how far away you want to move the switch you might consider 0AWG but then you may run into an issue with the posts, and space, on the back of the switch itself - depends on what gauge wire it was designed to accept. If you're only adding a few feet #2 will be fine.
When I added my battery switch I was able to locate it on the outside of the engine box, just under a removeable seat bottom. With the seat bottom in place the switch is pretty well protected from legs or anything else, and I don't have to open anything to get to it.
Decide on a location, carefully measure the length of each cable you'll need - accounting for bends and some slack, then either have the cables made or go to West Marine and make them up yourself - which is what I did (they sell the bulk cable, the connectors, and the shrink wrap. The have a heavy duty crimper, but they won't make the cables for you). If you use lugs/posts to extend the cables make sure you have something to cover the posts to prevent accidental contact.
It'll take some thought and planning but is definitely doable.
Dan
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01-26-2012, 05:30 PM
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#3
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Liberty Lake, WA... moored on Beautiful Coeur D' Alene Lake, ID
Posts: 199
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Great input, ss---thanks again! I've measured it and it looks like about 4' will cover it if I extend. REPLACEMENT would be over 20' overall from what I can tell. I too thought that extending from a terminal strip (lugs/posts) would work okay, especially if it's covered properly. BTW, what the heck kind of a car do you own that they installed the batteries in the trunk... and why I wonder?!
Anyway, if I do this, I'll take some pictures and post them in the Spring... thanks again!
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Jeff Means
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01-26-2012, 06:18 PM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Jeff, a terminal strip isn't going to do the job, you'll need individual, isolated, posts for each cable you want to extend. In the link look at # 406-200 - that's the kind of thing you'll need, just be certain it's rated to carry the load. http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/Ba...tion block.htm
Dan
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01-26-2012, 09:46 PM
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#5
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Lt. Commander
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Liberty Lake, WA... moored on Beautiful Coeur D' Alene Lake, ID
Posts: 199
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ss, good catch... understood and thanks!
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Jeff Means
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03-12-2012, 03:14 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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I've contemplated the same thing. On my boat, my concern is that locker may be potentially too wet. I've been considering whether my batt. switch can be placed in the hanging locker along with the breaker panel just inside of the cabin hatch. It would make it SO much easier than moving things like the table and cooler and opening an engine hatch every single time. My concern is it is too long of a run.
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03-12-2012, 03:40 PM
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#7
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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After living with mine being so accessable it would make me crazy if I had to open or move things to get to it.
There's no place back by the engine compartment to mount it Shrew? If you use 2 AWG I wouldn't worry much about the run.
Jeff - forgot to answer. Wife's car is a BMW convertible, mine is a MB. Both cars have the batteries in the trunk (the MB actually has 2 batteries - a small "accessory" battery under the hood) and both use 2 AWG cables.
Dan
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03-12-2012, 04:26 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss3964spd
There's no place back by the engine compartment to mount it Shrew? If you use 2 AWG I wouldn't worry much about the run.
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I have a locker just like what Jeff posted, but mine gets water in it.
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