Having issues with the shore power - Maxum Boat Owners Club

KimL · 09-03-2018, 02:03 PM

This is our first season as boat owners- Maxum 3000 SCR.

The last couple of weeks we have come to the boat and had dead batteries although the shore power has been hooked up and shoving 110 volt on the meter on the switch board. Did see the GFI had tripped after a serious thunderstorm. Reset it but still do not have any power on the boat. Lights gages etc.

Any suggestions?

Kiml

jparsons121 · 09-03-2018, 02:25 PM

If you're showing 110 AC on the meter. On both line 1 & 2?
Verify that the breaker for your battery charger is on.
Check that 12v battery switches are on.

Start there.
John

KimL · 09-03-2018, 04:21 PM

110 volts both line, battery switches on "ALL" battery charger breaker "ON"

mmwjr · 09-03-2018, 09:22 PM

You need to verify the battery charge is connected to the batteries and working. Lights, gauges, ... are 12 VDC and get power from the batteries so if they are not being charged they will run down if you are leaving any 12VDC item on which I don’t recommend anyhow. What are you leaving on while away?

KimL · 09-03-2018, 10:30 PM

Nothing is left on that I know of. Battery switches are on " ALL", battery charger swith is "ON" as are both main switches.
Have not seen any polarity warning.
Bought a jump box and will try to start the engines tomorrow.

We have had a string of heavy showers, and although the cockpit cover deflect most of the rain we bailed about 30 gallons out of the bilge as the bilge pumps are not running either

mmwjr · 09-04-2018, 01:47 AM

I would set the battery switch to off when away. The bilge pumps should have a float switch that does not require the battery switch to be on. 30 gallons is a heck of a lot of rain! Are you sure it was that much?

Phillbo · 09-04-2018, 02:15 AM

I've never seen a bilge that will hold 30 gallons of water without the starter getting wet.

jparsons121 · 09-04-2018, 12:53 PM

With 110 AC to the panel and the breaker ON for the battery charger, bilge pumps should run. Charger is directly connected to batteries (or should be) so switch position shouldn't matter for them to run. There is an in-line fuse for the the pump in the positive lead on the battery. Verify that it's not blown.

Next would be working thru this same circuit with a voltmeter.
With shorepower off, check voltage at battery. Turn in charger. Check voltage again. It should be higher with charger on.

John

shrew · 09-04-2018, 02:30 PM

If the shore power is connected; breaker on the post on the dock is on; cables plugged in; the Main breaker is on; breaker for the battery charger is on; and your batteries are still dead, it can only be one of the following:

1) The battery charger is not getting a AC voltage from panel breaker

=> Take voltmeter set to AC, for 110/130. Test connection to the battery charger

2) The battery charger is not outputting on 12v side

=> Take voltmeter set to DC, for 12V. Test connection to the charging leads to the battery (preferably while disconnected from the batter)

2) Battery charger is not connected to the batteries

=> Connect charging leads to the battery terminals

3) Batteries are not taking or holding a charge.

=> Test with alternate charger. Replace batteries if problem persists.

mmwjr · 09-04-2018, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shrew

If the shore power is connected; breaker on the post on the dock is on; cables plugged in; Main breaker is on; breaker for the battery charger is on; and your batteries are still dead, it can only be one of the following:

1) Battery charger is not getting a DC voltage from panel breaker

=> Take voltmeter set to DC, for 110/130. Test connection to the battery charger

2) Battery charger is not outputting on 12v side

=> Take voltmeter set to AC, for 12V. Test connection to the charging leads to the battery (preferably while disconnected from the batter)

2) Battery charger is not connected to the batteries

=> Connect charging leads to the battery terminals

3) Batteries are not taking or holding a charge.

=> Test with alternate charger. Replace batteries if problem persists.

shrew you must have had a good weekend because you got your AC/DC backwards. 120VAC and 12VDC

shrew · 09-05-2018, 05:14 PM

Ugg, I did!!! I know the difference, somehow I still get those reversed in long winded summaries. I should check my work.

dannyrayz · 09-06-2018, 02:52 AM

If you have Carbon monoxide detectors, they're wired directly to the batteries as well and will drain them too if not on shore power.

How old are the batteries? Check for load charge.

shrew · 09-06-2018, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannyrayz

If you have Carbon monoxide detectors, they're wired directly to the batteries as well and will drain them too if not on shore power.

I would be surprised if this were the case. Wiring directly to the batteries and bypassing isolation switches is the stuff of shade tree mechanics and DIY.

rwc · 09-21-2018, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shrew

I would be surprised if this were the case. Wiring directly to the batteries and bypassing isolation switches is the stuff of shade tree mechanics and DIY.

I think I recall reading that this is how the CO sensor is set up though, the intention being that you can't inadvertently shut it off and then not notice. I would presume it should have a fuse, but no switch.

dannyrayz · 09-21-2018, 07:37 PM

Yeah they have in-line fuses, just like the stereo memory wire(in the engine compartment)

If I leave my boat unattended for any length of time, I pull the fuses.

And if your GFCI trips because of a surge, reset it and all your breakers, they may look like their in an on position, but might not really be.