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05-26-2017, 10:33 PM
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#1
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Guest Battery Off Switch Not working
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05-26-2017, 11:05 PM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Welcome aboard
So by removing the positive off just one battery off is off?
Is it just one battery that behaves this way?
Do you get power with this wire off and the switch on? Batt 1 or Batt 2 position?
What is the second red wire on the lower battery in the first picture?
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-26-2017, 11:55 PM
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#3
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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1. The large main positive wire stays on the battery it's just removing the small red/black wire that makes off - off
2. Happens if I put the red/black wire on either batteries positive terminal
3. Yes when the red black wire is off.. I get power on batt 1 and batt 2 and both and off is off
4. That wire goes to the trim ..makes stern drive go up or down
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05-26-2017, 11:59 PM
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#4
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Thank you
Btw Thanks for reply Mike
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05-27-2017, 04:34 AM
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#5
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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You're welcome
Where do those red/black wires go? They don't look factory.
I cannot tell what there for from the pictures.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-27-2017, 04:42 AM
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#6
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Really confused on how you can start the engine with the switch in the off position by wiring in the small red/black wire which cannot handle the high amps of a starter.
What stops working when the red/black is disconnected?
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-27-2017, 05:26 AM
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#7
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Captain
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mn.
Posts: 664
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When you took those pictures the Battery Switch is in the #1 position!!!!
Not Off!!!
Engine will start when switch is in #1 position!
Just my 2c!
Don
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1995 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7 A1 G2 LUNA DE MIEL SOLD
1988 Bayliner 2455 5.0 IO (sold)
1987 Seaswerl 18ft C. Cabin 4.3 IO(lost in fire)
2012 South Bay Pontoon
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05-27-2017, 06:14 AM
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#8
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 70
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red/brown should be to your float switch(engine bilge)... always wired directly to your battery... the red/black I presume is an power lead to the dash... how it got there I do not know(and possibly its supposed to go to your forward bilge float)... 1st do you keep your boat in the water? if so you MUST make sure your float switches (engine bilge and cabin bilge) have power from the battery and do NOT go threw the guest switch... once you find those power leads to the floats and make sure they are wired directly to the battery take all the other leads and connect to the "feed" post of the guest selector switch as well as make sure that the main power lead to the starter is connected to the feed lead as well... that should solve your problem and make sure that you are properly wired as well
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05-27-2017, 01:40 PM
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#9
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
You're welcome
Where do those red/black wires go? They don't look factory.
I cannot tell what there for from the pictures.
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They go straight up into a black wiring jacket bundled with a lot of other wires...have not traced the other end yet and can not find detailed info in boat literature
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05-27-2017, 01:41 PM
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#10
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Also they are factory
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05-27-2017, 01:47 PM
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#11
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Sorry I should clarify I put the in the key and turned it to the right and had power when the switch was in off...I did not try to start engine
I am not sure yet if anything stopped working
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05-27-2017, 01:52 PM
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#12
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Lol! Thanks Don..ya never know it could be something simple right?...but I took the picture as I was trying different scenarios....before I sent the post I made sure that the off switch worked/no power to the dash....then when I attached back the red/black...i had power at the dashboard
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05-27-2017, 02:45 PM
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#13
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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On a different topic is that an exposed solder joint on the lower wire near the fuse holder? If so it needs to be corrected to prevent a short.
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-27-2017, 02:45 PM
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#14
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bman440440
red/brown should be to your float switch(engine bilge)... always wired directly to your battery... the red/black I presume is an power lead to the dash... how it got there I do not know(and possibly its supposed to go to your forward bilge float)... 1st do you keep your boat in the water? if so you MUST make sure your float switches (engine bilge and cabin bilge) have power from the battery and do NOT go threw the guest switch... once you find those power leads to the floats and make sure they are wired directly to the battery take all the other leads and connect to the "feed" post of the guest selector switch as well as make sure that the main power lead to the starter is connected to the feed lead as well... that should solve your problem and make sure that you are properly wired as well
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yes boat is water.. and agree that those pumps can not go thru the switch.
your other point is the only possible solution.. do I need hardware to do this?
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05-27-2017, 02:47 PM
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#15
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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As stated on set of wires is probably for the float switch of the bilge pump. Seems as though the other is connected to something at the helm. I would look at the helm wiring fir the red/black wire to see where it is connected.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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05-27-2017, 03:12 PM
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#16
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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I think its just a piece of tape.. I will check it out though.. thanks
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05-27-2017, 03:12 PM
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#17
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Ensign
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 11
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will do thanks again for all the assistance!
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05-27-2017, 04:03 PM
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#18
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdelly
yes boat is water.. and agree that those pumps can not go thru the switch.
your other point is the only possible solution.. do I need hardware to do this?
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no new hardware needed... just make sure ALL of your float switches have power direct from battery and connect everything else to the "feed" of the selector switch including the heavy power lead that goes directly to the starter
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05-30-2017, 02:28 PM
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#19
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,691
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In the picture, both batteries are sharing a common ground (Yellow). Each has a separate positive (Red), which should be going to the battery switch. What are those small wires with the black (dongle) attached?
To me, those small black wires look like they are cross connecting the positive sides of the battery. This would put them into a parallel configuration, essentially making them one large battery bank. It almost looks like you've essentially bypassed the battery switch and are completing the circuit to the starter solenoid inadvertently.
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05-30-2017, 03:07 PM
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#20
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 33
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I have two guesses... The previous owner had an issue where the bilge pump killed the battery, so they essentially ran two power wires back to the batteries hoping if it happened again they would have a longer period to run the bilge? Doing this would cause the issue as the would both meet up at the bilge pump. Secondly, you have a positive wire on one battery positive terminal, and the other wire is a ground attached to the 2nd battery's positive terminal. (I doubt this one though as you have a fuse on both wires. Disconnect them and with a multi-meter, see if you have continuity.
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