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04-23-2018, 09:34 PM
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#1
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 85
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Fridge stops working on AC
We just noticed during a cruise this weekend that, when I enable the AC to the fridge, it stops cooling. The light stays on inside, but the compressor won't run. If I turn off the AC to the fridge it picks right back up and keeps going. So, for now, we just have a note to never enable the fridge's AC, but that worries me a bit. Anyone seen that before?
My understanding is that the AC/DC fridges just use a little built-in inverter to convert the AC to DC anyway, so it's possible the inverter's just fried or something, but you'd think that as long as there was still DC to it, enabling AC would, at worst, do nothing, but that's not the case.
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Boating blog: https://highwind.fun/
2008 Endeavour TrawlerCat 48 - Cruising the Great Loop
Used to own: 1999 Maxum 2800 SCR - Serenity - 7.4L/B3
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04-24-2018, 12:43 AM
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#2
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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If you are underway a generator needs to provide 110 VAC to power the frig in AC mode.
There is no DC to AC converter. There is a power supply that converts AC to DC as 5he frig operates on 12VDC.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-24-2018, 01:12 AM
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#3
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 85
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I'm talking about sitting connected to shore power. If I flick on the fridge breaker, it immediately stops the compressor (but the light on the dial stays on) -- flick it back off, compressor starts back up again. So for now, just been running it on 12V the whole time and letting the charger provide the current to support it on 12V. Not the end of the world, just not ideal.
Sorry, I meant power supply (inverter does the other way).
__________________
Boating blog: https://highwind.fun/
2008 Endeavour TrawlerCat 48 - Cruising the Great Loop
Used to own: 1999 Maxum 2800 SCR - Serenity - 7.4L/B3
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04-24-2018, 03:03 AM
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#4
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,623
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Got it, I agree sounds like the power supply converter is not working. Try searching the site as this sounds fimilar and I think others have posted a fix for it.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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04-24-2018, 02:42 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,690
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If you're on shorepower, then should have way more than enough amps to charge the batteries and keep them topped off, even with the fridge running on DC. When you're away from the dock, then you're running on DC anyway. The generator will also push more than enough amps to run the battery charger like shorepower.
I can see wanting it run properly on principal, but I wouldn't be that worried about it.
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04-24-2018, 06:34 PM
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#6
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 85
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Oh for sure! This is just pedantry since I like everything on the boat working, without exceptions if possible.
__________________
Boating blog: https://highwind.fun/
2008 Endeavour TrawlerCat 48 - Cruising the Great Loop
Used to own: 1999 Maxum 2800 SCR - Serenity - 7.4L/B3
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04-25-2018, 07:46 PM
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#8
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 85
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Yeah I found the threads about the reverse being fairly common, but since it works great on normal 12V, it's likely another issue. Will probably just ignore it for now and if I ever need to tear into behind the fridge I'll take a look while I'm back there at the power supply.
__________________
Boating blog: https://highwind.fun/
2008 Endeavour TrawlerCat 48 - Cruising the Great Loop
Used to own: 1999 Maxum 2800 SCR - Serenity - 7.4L/B3
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04-26-2018, 03:05 PM
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#9
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 33
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Normally if the green light is on and nothing from the compressor, could still be the LED in the switch as that is also your temp control. If its bad, it will show the LED on but the compressor doesn't turn on because it isnt being told to by the thermostat. I had mine completely apart and the way the power supply is wired on mine, if the "inverter" function stopped working on the 110 side, it would kill the 12v side as well. The temp control is wired into the thermostat and both 12v and 110 are controlled by it separately. (so weird how they designed it) Could always upgrade the green LED to bight blue by removing just the temp control from inside the fridge and it will also light up the inside nicely if you dont have a fridge light already.
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04-26-2018, 03:20 PM
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#10
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member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 346
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You may have a lose wire. What is common to boats.
The 125v. go straight to your fridge, after the switch.
I would check there see if get any power.
Good luck.
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04-27-2018, 01:44 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,690
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That is a good idea. The fridge is very easy to remove. A volt meter would tell you if it's the circuit or the fridge. My money is on the fridge.
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