2 bilge pumps?

[crus]

when i opened a panel in the cabin floor i found a second bilgepump.
is this like a failsafe if the cabin floods or something?

and what is that RULE-A-MATIC switch for next to it?


i also wondered, should a bilge always be completely dry (best case scenario) or is it supposed to always have some amount of water in it?

[mmwjr]

Cruisers have a forward and aft bilge pump. While we all want a dry bilge that is seldom the case. Rule-a -matic is the float switch to turn the pump on automatically if the water level gets to high.

You may have another pump that looks similar for the shower pump out.

[crus]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

Rule-a -matic is the float switch to turn the pump on automatically if the water level gets to high.

so... this should always be switched on i take it? or just when needed?

[Gugi47]

Originally Posted by crus

so... this should always be switched on i take it? or just when needed?

Should be always ON from the panel.

[shrew]

Each bilge compartment separated by a bulkhead should have its own bilge pump, regardless of whether the compartment can drain back to the one behind it. If the engine compartment is flooding the mid bilge, I want both pumps running.

[Phillbo]

Originally Posted by crus

i also wondered, should a bilge always be completely dry (best case scenario) or is it supposed to always have some amount of water in it?

Mine is always dry.

[shrew]

Originally Posted by crus

so... this should always be switched on i take it? or just when needed?

There should be two positive leads. One positive lead is always hot. That goes into the float switch, then from the float switch to the bilge pump. The other positive lead is from the switch at the helm. This ensures that there is power to the bilge pump even if the switch at the helm is off. This would only function if the battery switch is turned to ON.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by crus

so... this should always be switched on i take it? or just when needed?

T
The float switch should be wired directly to the batteries so if the float raises the pump turns on no matter what position the battery switch is in. The helm switch bypasses the float and should only be used if required.

[shrew]

Originally Posted by mmwjr

T
The float switch should be wired directly to the batteries so if the float raises the pump turns on no matter what position the battery switch is in. The helm switch bypasses the float and should only be used if required.

There are two schools of thought on this. The factory wires it through the bus panel because this allows you to isolate the circuit using the "issolation" (Battery) switch for safety purposes. Otherwise, you need to disconnect the leads from the batteries.

It's also not advisable to overload the battery terminal connections with uneccessary direct connections. Wiring to a single battery is a single point of failure should that bettery die. Using the isolation switch you can choose which set of batteries is being run on.

While running, you can ensure that you're bilge pumps are on the battery beign supplied by the alternator.

(I know don't get me started on running batteries on BOTH off of a single alternator).

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by shrew

There are two schools of thought on this. The factory wires it through the bus panel because this allows you to isolate the circuit using the "issolation" (Battery) switch for safety purposes. Otherwise, you need to disconnect the leads from the batteries.

It's also not advisable to overload the battery terminal connections with uneccessary direct connections. Wiring to a single battery is a single point of failure should that bettery die. Using the isolation switch you can choose which set of batteries is being run on.

While running, you can ensure that you're bilge pumps are on the battery beign supplied by the alternator.

(I know don't get me started on running batteries on BOTH off of a single alternator).

Either way this line requires a separate fuse than the helm switch.

On my batteries I reserve the stud for the main battery power cable and use the post to connect the battery charger and trim pump. All else is wired to the switch.

[jparsons121]

Adding to the 'two schools of thought' comment.
If you store boat in the water, pumps should always be 'live'. Wiring thru the isolator switch means that one battery will still need to be 'On' which may not be desirable...
For trailered boats, switch should allow you to 'disconnect' all power and not have any drain on batteries. I store small boat on trailer/lift without the plugs in, so no need for live pumps... Note: This boat has the 'automatic' pumps which cycle periodically to check for water rather than using a std float switch.

I subscribe to the theory that the only 'wrong way' to wire/setup dewatering is for it to fail in a predictable scenario...