Newb

[Drenski]

Hi there all. First of all, "thank you" in advance for all the help I know I'll be receiving.

My wife and I just purchased an old 1994 2300SR. The interior is almost perfect and the exterior is not bad either and the boat only has 340 hours on it and we purchased it from the original owner. He was a super nice guy and I don't believe he had any bad intentions.

Our first trip out we had a problem and so the boat was only in the water long enough to be launched and then reloaded about ten minutes later. Some metal on metal rubbing is what it sounded like to me and it started when I gave it some gas after floating past the buoys. I also found some water in the bilge so I'm guessing the billows and gimbal bearing need attention.

I'm looking forward to rubbing shoulders with everyone.

Eric

[mmwjr]

Welcome aboard

Where did it sound like the noise was coming from, engine or drive?

Did you check the fluid level, oil, gear lube, ...

Any other symptoms, engine get hot, gauges readings, high rpms vs slow forward motion?

If the bellows are bad the gimbal bearing and u-joints could be shot

[shrew]

Welcome aboard Drenski!!

Did you take the boat out prior to purchasing it, or did you just run it on muffs to verify it ran? Or neither?

Did the sound only occur when you put it in gear, or while it was running, or only when you turned the wheel all the way one way or the other?

Does the sound change only if you advance the throttle?

[Drenski]

Thanks for the replies. I really appreciate it.

We ran the boat with the muffs prior to sale. When I launched the boat, everything seemed to be working fine. I motored around in the wakeless area for about five minutes with no problems but when I gave it a little gas once outside the wakeless area is when the noise started. I didn't romp on it or anything, just gave it some more gas. The noise is present whether or not the boat is in gear and it has a rhythm that is constant with the rpm speed of the engine. It is not louder or quieter with a change in the rpm or when I turn the steering wheel.

[Kevlar7r]

Sounds like you diagnosed it, bellows, u-joint and gimbal bearing.



Drain your drive oil. Look for evidence of water. The upper seal is not designed to keep water out of the drive, so if you have failed bellows, there could be water in the drive.

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Kevlar7r

Sounds like you diagnosed it, bellows, u-joint and gimbal bearing.



Drain your drive oil. Look for evidence of water. The upper seal is not designed to keep water out of the drive, so if you have failed bellows, there could be water in the drive.

+1 what Kev said

[Drenski]

Ok. I'm on it. We're camping now so I'll have to take a look at it on Tuesday. I'm looking forward to tearing into it. I kind of like this sort of thing.

Thanks everyone.

[Kevlar7r]

Gimbal bearing and bellows require special tools, and the bearing has to be aligned. I am a hardcore do-it-yourselfer, but that's a job I won't do it myself.

[Drenski]

If anything, I can remove the outdrive and reinstall it later and save some money. Yeah, I'll leave the gimbal bearing and aligning to the shop. The boat has 340 hours on it and from what I know, it's time to check the alignment anyway.

I'll keep you all informed as to what happens.

[Kevlar7r]

I would drain the drive before you pull it. 2 reasons. 1. That takes off a small amount of weight so you don't have to carry it. 2. Unless you have a stand for it, it'll be a real pain to drain and fill while its off the boat.



1994, im betting that is an alpha drive. I would suggest splitting the drive and doing an impeller while you are draining it anyway.

[Drenski]

Sounds good Kev. I'm looking forward to starting this and seeing what I end up with.

Lets pretend for a moment. Is it possible to install a Bravo dual prop on this boat?

[mmwjr]

Originally Posted by Drenski

Sounds good Kev. I'm looking forward to starting this and seeing what I end up with.

Lets pretend for a moment. Is it possible to install a Bravo dual prop on this boat?

To switch to any Bravo you would need to remove the engine, replace transom assembly with a bravo one, install an inboard raw water pump, add Bravo drive.

[Kevlar7r]

Possible, but not practical.

[Drenski]

Ok then. I guess we'll stick with the Alpha drive. Is the dual prop that much better?

[mmwjr]

The B3 dual props provide torque canceling that limits slow speed wander in single engine boats and provides more bite. If you want the benefits of it buy a boat with it already installed unless you planning on a repower with all new package, but you have to plan to keep the boat for a long time to recover the cost.

[Kevlar7r]

What Mike said, but, the benefits are all low speed. There is a big trade off on top speed, drag and weight.

[Drenski]

Ok. I found that I have an oil monitor for the lower unit. Electrically, it isn't hooked up but it is plumbed. What problems will I have in trying to remove the outdrive with this monitor system?

[mmwjr]

No problems in removing the drive it has a valve interface that will close when you pull the drive to prevent the lube from running out.

[Drenski]

Pulled the drive off with no problems and about two cups of water came out with it. The drive shaft bellows has about a cup of water in it and the bearing was stuck. I was able to get it unstuck with my fingers but it's rough. I guess I already know the next step. As per Kev's recommendation, I'll be taking it to the boat shop to have a new gimble bearing installed and new bellows. I'm guessing it's best to just replace all the bellows as well. U-joint moves well and it appears to be sealed. Drained some oil too and found it to be nice and green. The magnet did have some very fine shavings on it.

[mmwjr]

IMO I would replace all 3 bellows, gimbal bearing, water hose, lube hose, trim limit and trim sender, lower shift cable, and the u-joints (cheap and you are there).

Also have them check the swivel shaft for play.