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08-29-2015, 04:18 AM
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#21
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Everett wa
Posts: 90
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Mine has a thru hull with a seacock. If I run it on earmuffs.... I close the seacock and iit uses the lower unit impeller...
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08-29-2015, 05:10 AM
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#22
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Sled600 is your boat fitted with a Y connection to going the thru hull and inlet from the drive water line?
The Alpha requires its water pump to cool the upper gears so if an inboard pump is used the drive pump is still need to cool the gears and you have to decide how to discharge the water.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-29-2015, 05:15 AM
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#23
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfrjag
I have one seat that cleaned up well, the stitching is breaking in some and stains on others from the cover collapsing and sitting on it.
I used soft scrub with bleach
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Check out the stains on vinyl thread under projects.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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08-29-2015, 05:32 AM
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#24
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Lieutenant
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Everett wa
Posts: 90
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Mike,
I dont remember seeing a y connection anywhere. I was just told when I bought it to close the seacock when i run it on earmuffs. I do and it seems to work. Never had a heating issue out of the water.
I always thought the engine driven pump was a booster of sorts. I didn't realize it may be only because of the FWC.....
Learning new stuff everyday.
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08-29-2015, 12:27 PM
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#25
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sled600
Mike,
I dont remember seeing a y connection anywhere. I was just told when I bought it to close the seacock when i run it on earmuffs. I do and it seems to work. Never had a heating issue out of the water.
I always thought the engine driven pump was a booster of sorts. I didn't realize it may be only because of the FWC.....
Learning new stuff everyday.
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The raw water pump is there to draw water into the cooling system as the engine circulating pump is not design to suck in water. On a closed system the circulating pump pushs the coolant thru the system just like in a car while the raw water pump move the water thru the open portion of the system.
For your drive pump to supply water when the thru hull is closed it must to connect somehow to the engines open cooling system. Since you do not have to open an valves it must have a Y connection. In order to not damage the inboard raw water pump I am assuming the drive pump feeds the input to the inboard one.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-19-2016, 02:58 PM
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#26
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Interesting
I regret to inform anyone who remembers thisbthat i have had this project on the back burner all winter.. lol
This week however i will be ordering a few parts so hopefully i will be ablebto update with some progress. My 16ft scout is so slow i am anxious to see what kind of speed i can get out of this 1900 with the 5.7 vortec with roller cam and 4 barrel carb!
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06-19-2016, 05:45 PM
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#27
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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We will be looking for you updates.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-20-2016, 02:51 PM
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#28
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Admiral
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Fairfax Va
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfrjag
i am anxious to see what kind of speed i can get out of this 1900 with the 5.7 vortec with roller cam and 4 barrel carb!
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That thing should fly.
As a reference, our 2400 SC3 with the 300 HP FI 5.7 (350 MAG MPI) and B3 drive touched 51 MPH yesterday according to the GPS. That was on pretty flat water, about 30 gallons of gas, drive trimmed up, trim tabs just a little down, and 6 people aboard.
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06-21-2016, 01:08 AM
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#29
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Thats movin! I was hopping to see upper 50s but only time will tell me.
Right now im trying to decide if the closed cooling is going to be worth the hassle. Itbdidnt have it before. Maybe why the old motor is no longer around though. Lol
Anyone put closed cooling on this model? I can modify the engine cover if i had to i guess.
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06-21-2016, 01:32 AM
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#30
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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I installed a full closed cooling system on a 93' Sea Ray 200 without needing to make any mods. The engine was a 4.3 though but the heat exchanger was over the belts so it did not take any additional forward space and was below the blame arrestor.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-21-2016, 01:36 AM
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#31
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Good i like to hear that what kit did you use or was it peiced together?
Mc320 is the sanjuan kit i think will work with my alpha outdrive.
Also i am wondering where i can find the exhaust elbows it looks like i am missing from riser to the yp pipe peices
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06-21-2016, 01:40 AM
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#32
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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I just bought a MC320 for my 2400 since I am re powering. That is a half kit, engine only.
The one I used on my Sea Ray was a Seakemp.
So this boat was not running when you bought it be that it's missing the elbows to the y-pipe?
Try a local repairs shop as some have used parts.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-21-2016, 01:46 AM
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#33
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Right i got a big pile of crap and if i had a clue on this type of stuff i would be way ahead.. haha
I am reaearching again as i am about to start buying some parts. I like the closed cooling because i can use the thinner headgasket thats not a marine gasket and the aluminum intake manifold thats pretty cheap. One thing i have is time sinceni am gone for 3 weeks at a time.
I am an engineer on a tugboat and i build race atv engines while im home but never messed with this kind of boat or motor..
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06-21-2016, 01:51 AM
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#34
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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I'm a EE and old gear head. Now days just perfer to have a maintance only boat so I can just use it but after running this one for 8 years and she is a total of 19 years old the main bearing are shot. So repowering I am and addressing other issues along the way. Being salt boat I went with the closed cooling plus winterizing will be a little easier not that it was really that hard before.
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1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-21-2016, 02:12 AM
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#35
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Either way from what i read the block and heads will last longer going closed cooling.. save a few bucks on intake mani and put it towards the cooling system seems like a no brainer but i keep talking to some guys who run raw water with no thermostat on high perf motors. Maybe they dont plan on it lasting anyways.. idk
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06-21-2016, 03:40 AM
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#37
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Admiral
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Essex, Maryland
Posts: 10,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfrjag
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I don't think so it looks to be for Alpha Gen 1 and you boat is a Alpha Gen 2
__________________
1997 Silverton 362, 7.4 Crusaders
1997 2400 SCR, 5.7 Vortec / Bravo 2
Mike
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06-21-2016, 12:29 PM
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#38
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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Ahh thanks
Went ahead and ordered a summit aluminum intake mani and put a bid on an edelbrock 1409 carb. Got the shim type headgaskets and intake mani gaskets. Should be able to get motor halfway together once i get home. Some progress is a good thing my better half keeps askin when its gonna be done. Haha
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06-21-2016, 12:52 PM
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#39
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Lt. JG
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 29
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So for the bellow and gimbal kit.. should i go oem or is the ebay stuff ok?
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06-21-2016, 01:03 PM
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#40
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Commander
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 251
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Westlees white wall cleaner is amazing on cleaning things like that also.
BB
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmwjr
Check out the stains on vinyl thread under projects.
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