Magnesium Anode Cone 2000 bravo 3
I have a 2000 2800scr in fresh water with Magnesium Anodes - that really work well. Question please and thanks:
Given that new drives have an anode cone, is it possibly to install one on an older prop shaft? Also, I have one broken stainless wire leading from the bell housing to the drive. My mechanic mentioned that it is not necessary - is this advise correct? |
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Thanks shrew. The earlier bravo 3’s are known for corrosion problems and I wish to mitigate it on my drive as much as possible.
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Being that you boat in fresh water you can probably get away with the broken bonding wire but when it's time to service the bellows I would replace it. If you boated in salty water it's a must fix IMO.
Note while the water is fresh doesn't mean its ph is neutral. |
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Thanks Shrew.
I’ve been standing on ice prepping the lifted boat for launch in 4 weeks (heading to Canada’s most beautiful province of Florida in the mean time). I noticed a little threaded hole in the end of the prop shaft - and just wondered if it would accommodate an anode cone? I’m diligent with refreshing the anodes - despite the fact I’m still getting some corrosion |
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The most common location for drive corrosion is along the thin spots, like the edge of the anti-ventilation plate and the skeg. Zinc's are supposed to corrode. If they corrode beyond 50%, I change them. You might simply have a higher change rate than normal. If that is the case and you are in freshwater, then I would be looking for stray current at the dock. Is this boat stored in the water or on land? |
Bravo 3’s commonly corroded at the back of the bullet due to the stainless steel props interacting with the aluminum.
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